Domaine du Clos Naudin: Tasting & Drinking
The wines made by Philippe Foreau at Domaine du Clos Naudin could perhaps be considered the ultimate expression of the Vouvray vineyard. He exhibits great care in tending his vines, has a reasoned approach to his work in the vineyard, and in the cellar there is minimal manipulation and the restrained use of older wood for fermentations. In his refusal to vinify and bottle according to parcel of origin our focus is forced onto Vouvray, as in the appellation, not a particular terroir or vineyard. His stylistic preferences, which in part translates into no chaptalisation, no malolactic fermentation and perhaps most important of all a tendency towards lower levels of residual sugar in the wines, translates into a very pure style, defined by poise and a frame of acidity. When he allows a little sugar in the wine, in the demi-sec cuvée in particular, this immediately leads to an electrifying balance of all Vouvray should be, pure, off-dry, fresh and capable of evolving great complexity.
In the moelleux and moelleux réserve cuvées these sensations are multiplied ten-fold, and whether you prefer the purity and precision of the first, or the hedonistic botrytis-kissed texture of the second, there are no denying that these cuvées are benchmarks for the entire appellation. Indeed, they are benchmarks against which all sweet wines worldwide should be judged. “No other white wine in France has the capability to age like Vouvray”, says Philippe Foreau, and in this I believe he is right. When other great white wines are largely fading, even sweet white wines, Vouvray marches on, confident and composed, not merely as an ‘interesting’ relic but as wines that are joyful to drink. In age, as the sugar fades, the complexity emerges; at this point “la vérité va montrer”, the truth will show, says Philippe.
Some recent vintages here have, nevertheless, been difficult, as they have across all Vouvray. The 2013 vintage was hit by hail, and Philippe lost 50% of the crop, a terrible loss although others lost more, of course. In 2012 the vines were dogged by mildew, while 2011 was complicated but it seems to have come good for Philippe in the end, this being the first vintage to see the production of a Goutte d’Or for 21 years. Hopefully future vintages will be greater; Philippe would like to see another 1996 or 2002, his favourites of recent vintages. I would certainly echo that sentiment. (19/8/08, updated 25/11/14)
