Domaine Huet: The Domaine Today
Despite signifying a fundamental change in ownership, the arrival of Anthony Hwang on the scene changed little in terms of philosophy, style or winemaking at Domaine Huet. Anthony always had a gentleman’s reputation, and he had a long-held a passion for wine, having already acquired Domaine Királyudvar in Tokaji several years before he bought Huet. He had no desire to alter an already very successful formula; he did perhaps facilitate some investment and upgrades though.
When I first visited, many years ago, I am sure I tasted the wines in the chill of the cavernous storage warehouse, with nothing more than a trestle-table dressed with a paper table-cloth to suggest that this might also be a tasting venue. In more recent years a tiny room at the back of the house on the Rue de la Croix Buisée was put to use for tastings, but in 2009 construction of a splendid new tasting room was completed. Fears that the style of wine would change forever were, however, largely unfounded. To be precise there has certainly been a trend in the first decade of the 21st century for higher residual sugars in the sec cuvées, but otherwise little has changed here in terms of wine style. The pétillant cuvées remained as delicious as ever, the sweeter wines were no less convincing than older vintages. All went well.
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