Domaine du Haut Bourg: Tasting & Drinking
Having extolled the virtues of Origine du Haut Bourg, a wine which the Choblet family feel is one of the best cuvées they have ever produced (and I am not inclined to argue) I should make clear that this domaine – whether it goes by the name of Domaine du Haut Bourg or its organic alter ego, Domaine H & N Choblet – is not a one-trick pony. The brothers Hervé and Nicolas Choblet turn out an admirable range of wines here, and there is pleasure to be found at all levels. The wines might not display the profound minerally intensity that can be found elsewhere, surely a reflection of the terroir, but they do have a surprising degree of minerality considering their origins, and they are often fruit-rich, flavoursome, bright, defined and structured.
Most impressive is, as I have indicated above, the Origine du Haut Bourg cuvée, but the range is interesting across the board. While Origine is the grand vin, a wine bound to provoke reflective drinking, do not underestimate the ability of Signature du Haut Bourg to achieve the same. Pavillon du Haut Bourg provides a remarkable combination of value and quality, while the more recently introduced La Désirée du Haut Bourg (pictured below) spans the divide, with more minerally intensity, vigour and character than we should perhaps expect at this level. And for good-value sparkling wines, do not overlook the Nantais; the Plaisance cuvée is evidence that these soils, with Grolleau Gris as the translating variety, have untapped potential.
And, as always with Muscadet, the wines offer not just quality and interest, but great value for money. Domaine du Haut Bourg and Domaine H & N Choblet are two domaines (two domaines in one, I suppose) which are certainly worth following. (19/6/12, updated 26/4/14, 10/3/19, 14/9/24)
