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Laurent Pasquier Cour-Cheverny La Charmoise 2021

Cour-Cheverny is one of the Loire Valley’s hidden gems, a Romorantin-fuelled secret weapon. And it is arguably the most noble appellation of the Sologne, the somewhat enigmatic triangle of forest gently squeezed between the course of the Loire, to the north, and the Cher, to the south, just upstream of Tours. To my palate it provides more interest than the wines of the larger Cheverny appellation, the main challenge coming from the small handful of cuvées which major on Menu Pineau rather than the usual Sauvignon–Chardonnay blend.

I would argue that the great grapes of Pouilly-Fumé and Puligny-Montrachet, typically blended in an 80:20 ratio in the Cheverny appellation, don’t belong in this ancient Turonian landscape anyway, where more Solognot varieties – the aforementioned Menu Pineau and Romorantin but also Chenin Blanc and Côt – are perhaps more suited to the region and have a more autochthonous vibe. Although, if you believe the Romorantin mythology –  that this is a foreign variety imported and planted here on the orders of a 16th-century monarch – you might say it also does not belong here.

It is a widely touted legend, one which I heard repeated again only last week (in Bordeaux, of all places). If you are unaware of from whence Romorantin is said to have travelled, perhaps its genetic heritage will give you a clue. Study of the variety’s genetic markers have revealed it to be a cross between two old dependables, Gouais Blanc and Pinot Teinturier, the latter a colour mutation of Pinot Noir. Romorantin thus shares its parentage with the likes of Aligoté, Chardonnay, Gamay Noir and Melon de Bourgogne, and this roll call of famed varieties clearly suggests a Burgundian origin.

The legend fits with this very nicely, as it tells us that the variety was brought here from the golden slopes of the Côte d’Or on the orders of François I (1494 – 1547), who had 80,000 pieds planted close to his ‘hunting lodge’, the palatial Château de Chambord. In truth, however, the supposition that these vines were Romorantin is just that; supposition, as there is no historical or scientific evidence pointing to the identity of these vines. Romorantin could therefore be a Burgundian immigrant, but it could just as easily be an indigenous crossing borne of two similarly imported Burgundian parents.

Laurent Pasquier Cour-Cheverny La Charmoise 2021

Other pieces of circumstantial evidence also cast doubt on this legend. The variety appears to be named for the nearby town of Romorantin-Lanthenay, which seems unlikely if it were transported here by horse and cart from Meursault or Puligny. And despite Burgundy having donated 80,000 vines, there appears to be no record of the variety there, no historical nods, and no current plantings. Local folklore also suggests an alternative origin, during the 19th-century, the variety apparently produced by a grower on the banks of the Cher. This fits with the first mention of the variety in academic texts, which was in Le Dictionnaire des Noms de Cépages de France, published by the ampelographer Pierre Rézeau in 1868. The oldest extant vines – in the possession of Domaine de la Charmoise – also date from this era, having been planted sometime around 1820.

None of this should detract from the high regard which exists for Romorantin in this region. This was made clear in 1949 when it was blessed with its own Vin Délimité de Qualité Supérieure (VDQS) designation, which for readers not so long in the tooth was a classification system (now phased out) one rung down from Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée. It has since of course been rewarded with its own appellation. Despite this, at the last count Romorantin accounted for little more than 60 hectares of the Sologne vineyard, tended by a small number of growers. Among these I have some favourites, with François Cazin perhaps at the head of the pack, although the wines of Domaine de Montcy (so recently sold by Laura Semeria to her winemaker and his backers) and Thierry Puzelat have also given pleasure in the past. But domaines of note are not legion, and so it is always of interest to learn of another, and to discover their wines.

And so to Laurent Pasquier. Laurent is latest member of his family to take over their vines, having been passed the baguette by his father, Jacky. His domaine is situated at the side of the road heading east out of the town of Cheverny, in the lieu-dit of La Charmoise, almost midway between the towns of Blois and the now-familiar Romorantin-Lanthenay. His 26 hectares of vines are part of a classically pastoral Sologne landscape, little slopes of vines interdigitating with woodland, this whole corner of France once little more than a hunting ground for the aforementioned François I. The vines are tended using conventional methods, the vinifications straightforward.

In the glass the 2021 Cour-Cheverny La Charmoise from Laurent Pasquier presents a pale and certainly understated appearance. Despite this the nose is nothing less than delightful, the aromatic profile dominated by handsomely expressed scents of lemon curd, blanched almond, crushed chalk and white flowers, all working together with a fine sense of harmony. Happily the palate then builds on this, putting the energy and vivacity suggested on the nose into a glossy substance which coats the palate with joy, not to mention little notes of bitter citrus peel and freesias, all set together in a cohesive whole. It maintains this very correct style right through to the finish, making this a great, drink-me-now Romorantin. In short, it is absolutely delicious. If you can find a bottle – and I suspect the cavistes and supermarchés of France will yield the best results in this matter – make sure you pick one up. Or maybe two or three. After all, I am sure it’s what François I would have wanted you to do. 93/100 (29/1/24)

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