Domaine Belargus, 2023 Update
If there is one domaine that symbolises (and is partly driving) the changes currently sweeping across Anjou, and perhaps one day the entire Loire Valley, then surely it is Domaine Belargus.
This domaine grew out of my old favourite Pithon-Paillé, which itself was created from the remnants of the original Jo Pithon domaine, before Jo and his backer Philippe Fournier went their separate ways in a painful divorce. As retirement beckoned, and with no willing heir, stepson Jo Paillé and son Jules Pithon having decided to follow different paths, it was Ivan Massonnat who gathered up Jo’s vineyards and from them began shaping what is now known as Domaine Belargus.
Neither Ivan’s commitment to the cause, nor his vision for the future, should be underestimated. Evidence of the former comes from his purchase of 10 hectares of vineyards in Quarts de Chaume, which to put it in context is one-quarter of the appellation. He also bought a slice of the Savennières appellation, a small parcel right next to the Roche-aux-Moines vineyards. His vision for the region as a source of fine wine, the quality of which must be reflected in the price, can be seen on his own tariff sheets. This is a domaine turning out top-notch examples of Anjou Blanc, in the modern “New Anjou” style, one that focuses on minerality and acidity rather than fat golden richness, and which asks high prices akin to top-quality Chablis or white Pessac-Léognan.
The “Belargus Effect” (I’m in the mood for coining new terms, so consider both this and “New Anjou” to be mine) is already tangible up and down the banks of the Layon. During a series of visits in the region, to domaines on the banks of the Layon last year and in Savennières this year, the new style of Anjou was clearly in the ascendant. More significantly the prices of the top cuvées in many cases suddenly match or supersede those of Domaine Belargus. Flacons of Anjou Blanc and Savennières that would once have been 20 or 30 euros apiece are now listed at anywhere between 45 and 85 euros, for purchases at the cellar door.
