Château Gaudrelle: Tasting & Drinking
Within any appellation, be it in Bordeaux, the Loire Valley or beyond, it is always worth taking time to become acquainted with those estates which, while not on the top tier (which in Vouvray is still occupied by the likes of Philippe Foreau), still manage to turn out wines of consistency and quality, reliable wines which are also good value. Château Gaudrelle is one such estate. The hit rate of good bottles here under Alexandre Monmousseau was pretty high, and what is more the style is unforced, and it screams Vouvray very loudly.
The wines of the Monmousseau era typified the floral, talc-like purity and sweetness that can only result from the combination of Chenin Blanc, the flint-strewn limestone vineyards and the Ligérian climate. If the wines resembled those of another reference domaine, perhaps those of Champalou could be considered the closest match. In short, those looking for typicity and freshness in their wines, and who value the spring-water and flower-petal style of Vouvray above all others, could always find what they needed at Château Gaudrelle.
With a change of hands it will be interesting to see how the style develops here now that the domaine is under the direction of Éric Pasquier, but the early signs are good. The work in the vineyard is more precise, with certified organic viticulture, and a great degree of the work (including the harvest) completed by hand. There are horses involved too, of course, and the work in the cellar is veering away from over-intervention. The first tastes have been reassuring. Long may that continue. (21/9/10, updated 15/1/15, 28/1/18, 23/5/20, 24/8/24)
