François et Julien Pinon: Tasting & Drinking
I have a confession to make and that is this; when I went to meet François Pinon for the first time, many years ago now, hacking through the overgrown Jurassic vegetation in order to reach the lost world beyond Vernou-sur-Brenne, I had never before tasted his wines. I knew him through reputation only, and that was a reputation that existed locally, in Vouvray, and in important export markets, in particular the east coast of the USA. A couple of notable American importers, namely Louis Dressner and Chambers Street Wines, had introduced the more open-minded drinkers of New York to François Pinon, and several decades later sensible New Yorkers don’t seem to be showing any signs of losing interest. It is no wonder that, when François Pinon lost so much in the hail of 2013, the most vocal and real support came from the USA, where the aforementioned importers brought in Pinon’s library vintages for sale at cost, with all the profits going to François. There is more than a business relationship here; this was an act of trust, belief, and most of all friendship.
Happily for me I no longer have to stock up with several cases of wine from this domaine when I visit, because one or two more enlightened British merchants have also woken up to the quality of François Pinon’s wines, and I can now buy them in the UK. That isn’t to say I still don’t stock up when I visit though; the quality and vibrant succulence of these wines is just to good to pass up. The sparkling wines can be delightful – sometimes I prefer the Brut, sometimes the Non-Dosé, and the demi-sec cuvées can be electric, as indeed can the moelleux wines. Meanwhile the Première Trie and Cuvée Botrytis can both be stunning. This is a domaine where every bottle has something to offer. While I was deeply saddened to learn of François Pinon’s passing in 2021, I have faith and hope that Julien will continue to make some magnificent wines here. (5/8/08, updated 2/9/14, 20/3/21)
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