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Bordeaux 2005: The Right Bank
Bordeaux 2005
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St Emilion & Pomerol
As with the wines of Pessac-Léognan and the Médoc there was broad success here. With St Emilion it was Cheval-Blanc that reined supreme, Figeac being a no-show, having sent the rather delicious 2000 vintage instead, a green peppercorn and dark, brooding, gravelly-fruit infusion which seemed to have more in common stylistically with the wines of Pessac, particularly La Mission and Haut-Brion than it did with its St Emilion peers. That must be terroir talking, I suppose! The closest in terms of quality after Pierre-Lurton's wine were Angélus and then Bellevue. Pavie-Macquin and Larcis Ducasse also showed very well, and although still very rich in thick, drying tannin I am finding that the longer these heavily extracted styles rest in bottle the more approachable I find them to be, and thus the more I enjoy them. Certainly in this vintage they seemed to have softened from the initial tastes in April 2006 and then at two years of age at the annual UGC tasting in October 2007. I seem to have warmed to 2005 Larcis Ducasse gradually over these three tastings, whereas my feelings towards Pavie-Macquin have shifted more suddenly; the most recent tasting still seemed over-extracted, whereas today it seemed much more balanced and composed, with a remarkably higher score as a result.
As for Pomerol, few wines would compete with Petrus which was on show here, brought over by Olivier Berrouet (who has replaced his father Jean-Claude Berrouet as oenologist at Petrus) and Jean-François Moueix of Groupe Duclot, who administers the Petrus estate and who also has sole distribution rights within France. Gazin, Clinet, Providence and Trotanoy all showed well, perhaps the only disappointment being a rather muted performance from La Conseillante, which seemed strangely smoky and loose-knit.
Summing up then this was another grand showing for the wines of the 2005 vintage, which on the whole is a vintage characterised by excellent quality and potential longevity. A few wines scattered across the various appellations of Bordeaux disappoint, often at higher levels, but it remains to be seen through reassessment whether the identified characteristics are permanent or merely an awkward phase for this handful of usually grand and reliable cuvées. Unfortunately I think opportunities to revisit these wines in any detail in the future will be few and far between, at least until the wines in my own cellar start to reach maturity, perhaps in 10-15 years. Until then, au revoir 2005! (25/11/09)
The Right Bank 2005 - Tasting Notes
Tasted at the IMW 2005 Claret Tasting in November 2009. Click
to locate stockists.
Chateau Angélus 2005: An impressive depth apparent on the nose here,
with purely defined, vibrant although rather dense and gamey-meaty fruit. Rather dark, quite spicy, with a touch of balsamic, rich but curranty style. The
palate has a huge but rather softly defined presence, with a slowly building
wall of tannin which comes to dominate the midpalate, over a layer of ripe,
finely fleshy fruit. Huge and prodigious in terms of its structure. Great
substance. There is undoubtedly great potential here, although in its currently
youthful state it does seem a little loose-knit. 18.5+/20
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Chateau Barde-Haut 2005: The usual super-baked damson fruit here, with
notes of balsamic
and game. The palate seems qute light considering this full-on style on the
nose, with a wall of ripe tannins hiding rather ineffectually beneath the fruit.
The palate bears the same overbearing characteristics as the nose. I find this
over-worked for my palate. 15+/20
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Chateau Beau-Séjour-Bécot 2005: Rather appealing although very dark
style of fruit, but importantly it has freshness and perfume alongside what is
undeniably a very meaty depth of fine fruit. The palate seems a little soft at
first but it has some very admirable fruit, with a good depth of flavour with
only a faint, gamey quality to it. Lots of tannins, a touch hard, firm acidity,
lots of good components here. This should come very good with appropriate time
in the cellar. 17-17.5+/20
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Chateau Beauséjour 2005: A sweet blackberry and vanilla nose to
this wine, with plenty of creamy fruit on the palate and gentle tannins behind
it too. Quite full, although there is a charcoaly quality to it and also a very
savoury, meaty, stocky layer of fruit over the top. Good firm acids though. This
is an admirable effort which has very good potential for the future. A firm
finish 17+/20
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Chateau Bellevue 2005: A rather appealing, purely defined presence of
fruit on the nose here, linear and compact, but intense, sweet and creamy too.
The palate follows on in the same vein, with nicely refined fruit, creamy but
not overdone texture and an elegantly composed although rather fleshy wine. This
has some grippy, ripe tannins, and these sit well beneath the fruit today,
although they certainly are very big and firm. Very good style which should do
very well in the cellar. 18+/20
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Chateau Cheval Blanc 2005: A fine nose here, quite vibrant and
aromatic, a touch chalky, with pure red fruit character, elegant with cranberry
and redcurrant characteristics. There is a gentle smokiness to it but it has a
very restrained application of oak, and there are quiet nuances of liquorice and
crunchy tar. Beautiful purity on the palate, very well defined and elegantly
complete, balanced and light-footed, although with appropriate substance and a
core of well judged tannins. Not a prodigious wine, but it has lift, vigour and
definition on its side. It is very true to the Cheval Blanc style based on my
tastings of older vintages, and this will be absolutely fine in 10-20 years
time. 19.5+/20
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Chateau Dassault 2005: Dark and sweet fruit here, rather confected at
the edge, with a cola-like quality to it. A little herbal too. It starts off
quite cool on the palate, broadening out and fattening up a little, but always
displaying a shell of fruit rather than a fuller substance. Plenty of good
tannin, and the fruit character is appealing, with a very dark, style. It has a
little balsamic edge to it as well. There are certainly some good
characteristics here, but some elements do detract. 16+/20
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Chateau Grand Mayne 2005: Sweet and dark fruit on the nose, very
slightly feral and gamey. A nice substance maintained throughout on the palate,
with a seam of very ripe tannins beneath. Dark and quite substantial, but well
framed by acid, coolly structured and overall quite appealing. There is good
potential and perhaps even some value here I think. 17+/20
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Chateau Larcis Ducasse 2005: Beautifully vibrant on the nose at first,
although underneath there is also a current of raisined fruit, balsamic,
liquorice, black bean and soy. A little gentle at the start, before the cream
and extraction flows into the midpalate. There is still a huge amount of
structure evident here, with masses of tannin, firm acidity and huge meaty-fruit
flavour. Dark, brooding, but not fleshy or overly fat. With time this may all
come together, but these tannins will need an awful long time to integrate, and
the flavour profile won't appeal to all. 17-17.5+/20
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Chateau Pavie-Macquin 2005: Like the Larcis Ducasse the immediate
perfume of the nose gives way to dark curranty fruits, soy sauce and a very
feral, gamey style of fruit. There are elements of it that appeal, and some that
are less attractive. Pure in substance at the start, with a more chalky
granularity to the texture coming through later, in the midpalate. Lots of
backbone here, rather hard and firm, with a more gentle application of flesh and
fruit on top. There are attractive suggestions of elegance in the composition
here, and I wonder if this will move more in this direction with time. Overall I
think I like it, certainly more so than on previous tastes, although it will
need many years in order to come completely around. 16.5-17.5+/20
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Chateau Clinet 2005: Lovely quality here, all blood and iron and very
classic Pomerol spice. This has the very suggestion of elegance, and although
the palate shows a little soft and loose-knit today without doubt this is a very
well composed and elegant wine of considerable potential. It has good freshness
in the mouth which many other right-bankers don't have, and it has a perfumed,
liquorice-tinged and gravelly perfume. I find this very appealing and I am sure
it will drink well after a sensible length of time in the cellar. 18+/20
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Chateau Gazin 2005: Beautiful Pomerol character on the nose, darkly
spiced fruit, spicy oak too, dark but sweet and open and welcoming rather than
brooding. The palate is creamy at the start, then through the middle more
restrained, but it always has a very well-judged substance which covers the ripe
but rather forceful core of tannins. Very punchy acidity too. This is really
excellent and has plenty of classic style imbued with the richness of the
vintage. 18+/20
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Chateau La Conseillante 2005: Rather a perfumed and even slightly
confected character on the nose here, with a tinge of cola alongside the
restrained dark fruit aromatics. Not domineering though, and there is an
attractive smoky substance to it as well. The palate also shows a little
strangely today, a little unfocused and loose knit, although there is plenty of
substance here. A little fat, certainly creamy, with some central grip. I know I
have rated this highly in the past, and so this seems very strange.
Nevertheless, I can only mark this wine as I see it today, although I must
stress that it can not be a conclusive judgement based on this rather unusual
showing. 16-17+?/20
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Petrus 2005: A very solid style on the nose here, dark and
concentrated, still showing some primary Merlot character. There is purity to it
though, although also a lifted and subtly volatile element, with nuances of
balsamic. Intense cherry fruit, cranberry too, with roasted herbs. This all
belies a rich, substantial, defined and powerfully tannic palate which has a
structure that clearly demands the long haul. Very broad, lightly polished,
quite fleshy although nicely styled. There is a prodigious layer of tannin here,
which has a massive although velvety feel to it, swimming beneath primary fruit
character. Long, tannic, balanced and well defined this is a monumental effort
destined to slumber in the cellar for a very long time. 19.5+/20
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Chateau Providence 2005: Dark, meaty, savoury, beef-stocky fruit
character here on the nose. But there is also a delightful lift which has the
character of Cabernet Franc (which accounts for 10% of the vineyard), in that it
gives a perfumed, violet-tinged, crunchy fruit element. Overall it has a meaty
style and it certainly has appeal, even though there are little tinges of
balsamic as well. A fairly supple palate despite the flux of complexity and meat
seen on the nose, quite gently composed, elegant, but at the core rather firm
tannins which will keep this wine going nicely. An elegant but structured style of
Pomerol.17.5+/20
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Chateau Trotanoy 2005: Dark, pure and defined
fruit on the nose,
cleaner than some other wines, purer and certainly appealing, with aromatic
wood spice. On the palate a very structured and upright style of Pomerol, with
tightly packed and rather polished fruit, and a mildly stony, reserved texture.
There is good substance here though, and overall a balanced and direct rather
than overly-fleshy or generous style. This will make good drinking in 10 years,
or maybe even longer than that. 17.5+/20
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Clos Rene 2005: A rather smoky nose here, and fruit with a slightly
cooked feel to it, alongside a little beetroot. The palate shows a rather broad,
shell-like quality, a very firm and slightly feral character, without much fruit
to bolster the structure at present. Very hard and ungiving in style. There is
substance here, but not the generosity to match. 15.5-16+?/20
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