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Bordeaux 2005: The Right Bank
Bordeaux 2005
En primeur
At Two Years:
St Emilion & Pomerol
As usual I approached the wines of the right bank with the most apprehension. I have consistently found a tendency for over-working these wines, over-extracting the tannins, so that it some cases the wines take on an over-the-top persona, effectively becoming a vinous parody of what a good St Emilion (the region which tends to offend most often I think - certainly more then Pomerol, anyway) should be. This vintage, thankfully, was a little different. Yes, a number of the wines showed huge tannins and one wine in particular provided a really challenging assault, but with so many displaying rich fruit and spicy acidity, the wines were still good to taste, and they are likely to come good with time.
Once again I was disappointed to find Christine Valette absent from the tasting. I was wowed by the 2004 Troplong-Mondot last year, the first wine in the tasting that really impressed, and I was hoping for more of the same this year. It was not to be. As I noted at the Bibendum Bordeaux en primeur tasting earlier this year, Christine and her wines were nowhere to be seen. I wonder if it is a temporary hiatus, and perhaps she and her wines will return, or whether she now no longer participates in such events. Never mind, other wines more than made up for Troplong's absence. Canon-la-Gaffelière, Figeac and Clos Fourtet are the leading wines in St Emilion based on my tasting notes - which obviously only reflect a tiny proportion of the commune - whereas in Pomerol we are likely to be spoilt for choice. I found, of the handful of wines available for tasting, several that were excellent; these included Clinet, Gazin and la Conseillante, all of which were very exciting to taste. (20/11/07)
The Right Bank 2005: Tasting Notes
Tasted at the UdGC de Bordeaux tasting in October 2007. I have also
included notes on two wines tasted at a Decanter event in November 2007. Click
to locate
stockists:
St Emilion:
Chateau Belair 2005: An appealing nose, with ripe plummy and herby
fruit, with a layer of nutty oak showing through. The palate is attractive, with
a rather complete and gentle style compared to many other wines. Elegant rather
than forceful, well composed, with a firm acid backbone providing some
freshness. Underneath it there is good structure. Very typical understated
Belair style; certainly promising potential here. 17.5+/20
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Chateau Canon-la-Gaffelière 2005: This has a very flashy, plummy nose.
Exuberant style. There is a core of ripe tannins on the palate, which are
prominent and firm, but they are well matched by by a firm backbone of acidity
and a lovely, dense fruit profile. Textured. A big and impressive style, with an
awful lot going on here. A little on the edge but overall really excellent with
fine potential. 18-18.5+/20
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Chateau Figeac 2005: Deep,
dense, finely layered fruit on the nose, which is rather sweet and ripe at the
core. The palate presents itself in a very straightforward fashion at present,
but in a ripe, structured and balanced fashion. There is a firm seam of tannin
with a good acid backbone, but not a complex composition. It is all nicely put
together though, the tannins are well covered, and this is clearly a very
primary phase. Excellent potential for the future though. 17.5-18+/20
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Chateau Fonroque 2005:
This isn't showing too much on the nose at first, but on the palate it clearly
displays a fine weight and texture. It remains true to form for the estate,
possessing a smoothly composed polish, but with a good amount of tannin and
acidity underneath, providing some power. There is both substance and potential
here. This has very good potential. 16.5-17/20
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Clos Fourtet 2005: This
has smoky sweet fruit on the nose, with a very dense character, and little notes
of rich, roasted herbs. Creamily textured palate, seamless composed, with a nice
bitter-edged grip rather like very fine dark chocolate. Rich yet balanced, with
good acidity, but showing a firmer grip towards the finish. Excellent potential
here. 18+/20
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Chateau Grand Mayne 2005: This has a rather distinct toffee oak and
raspberry character on the nose. And on the palate it has a hard style, showing
good flavours but a bony structure. In terms of its composition it is rather
challenging, and it has a huge, bitter, spicy finish. Lots of tannins swimming
about, dominating the picture. Doesn't seem to have achieved a totally desirable balance
to me, but there are some good elements, and this may become more harmonious
with time. 16.5+/20
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Chateau La Gaffelière 2005: This has a wealth of dense fruit on the
nose, and a rather crisp character, perhaps enhanced by the redcurrant fruit it
is displaying. It has a rather cool and integrated start on the palate, showing
good acidity, but then this gives way to a rather hot tannic wall which comes to
be all-dominating. A huge, mouth-gripping style; this is too much for me. 14.5-15.5/20
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Chateau Larcis Ducasse 2005: An evocative nose, showing some rather
hot and feral fruit character laced with some spicy plum. It starts off nicely
on the palate, showing quite a high level of grippy tannins, but a good
associated ripeness too, and also a nice acid backbone. There is good weight,
and a lot of structure here. It is quite heavily extracted but there is a lot of
substance to balance this out. Nevertheless, I find it to be teetering on the brink of being overdone.
It is better than I rated it when tasting en primeur. 16.5-17.5+/20
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Chateau Larmande 2005: A very fine nose here, showing some lovely, pure
plummy fruit, laced with a cherry-cranberry freshness. It has a moderate
texture, and an appealing, moderately firm grip of tannin in the midpalate.
There is a slightly bitter edge to the peppery fruit, with good acidity and a
big layer of tannins beneath. I think it has the fruit and acidity necessary to
cope with these, and I think this has very good potential. 17-17.5+/20
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Chateau Pavie-Macquin 2005: This wine has very dark, sweet, macerated
cherry fruit character on the nose, with a slightly hot and feral edge to it.
Immediately ripe and rounded on the palate, with a creamy texture, the fruit
doesn't come through as the nose suggested it would. And dominating it all there
is a huge presence of massive, chewy tannins, which with the relatively low
acidity makes for a very overdone style. I find it to be over-extracted, which is a shame
as there are some good features here. 14.5-15.5/20
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Chateau Trottevieille 2005: A bright and aromatic style on the nose,
although it is complicated by nuances of slightly jammy fruit, with little hot,
feral nuances. On the palate though it initially seems much more composed than
the nose suggested, although through the midpalate there is a layer of feral,
cherry fruit laced with peppery spice, backed up by a huge, chewy grip of
tannin. There is a slight bitterness on the edge too. A decent style. 15.5/20
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Pomerol:
Chateau Beauregard 2005: An aromatic, plummy, dusty style of fruit on
the nose here, with a spicy character and also just a little touch of heat. It
has a soft and rounded texture on entry, initially showing a rather soft and
elegant style which was perhaps a touch unfocussed. Then there are plenty of
ripe and chewy tannins which are certainly more apparent at the finish. Possibly
a touch heavy on the extraction, but quiet a nice style nevertheless. 16.5+/20
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Chateau Clinet 2005: A very sweet and outgoing character on the nose
here, with fresh cranberry and plum fruit. Rich and sweet and quite fleshy on
the palate, it is also rather lively. There is a lovely tannic core, over which
there lies some fine firm, rather sappy style. Composed, admirable, although in
a more modern style, this is really good with fine potential. 18-18.5+/20
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Chateau Gazin 2005: This has some delightfully lifted aromatics on the
nose, with a dense, meaty, plummy character beneath. It is elegant, with notes
of white flower petals, and on the palate there is a similar style, although in
combination with much structure. Lots of appeal, but very firm, upright, and
unsurprisingly a big, tannic finish. But there is plenty of fruit here to cope
with this. Great potential here. 18-18.5+/20
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Chateau La Conseillante 2005: This has obvious finesse on the nose,
with a pure, plummy fruit presented in a crisp, very well defined fashion. The
palate shows all the necessary components, worked in together in a very
harmonious style. There is a firm core of tannins, wrapped in a layer of
bitter-edged redcurrant and plum fruit. A great composition, with fresh
well-balanced acidity and overall superb style. Really super potential here.
18-18.5+/20
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Chateau Mazeyres 2005:
This has a little raft of dark fruits on the nose, with some liquorice elements,
but otherwise it does not seem very open. The palate has a ripe, supple and
smooth composition, with a seamless, elegant presence in the mouth. There is
pleasing although restrained fruit, with nice grip underneath. It has the gentle
polish that is typical of Mazeyres, without the punch that the vintage has
brought to other wines of the commune. 16.5-17+/20
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Chateau Petit Village 2005: A sweet and handsomely evocative nose,
with a fresh and stylish character. On the palate it is firm, textured, and
really well strung together. It has a fine style, is harmonious, and has a good
tannic foundation. Great grip, and firm acidity. Good work here; this is showing
very differently to the representative barrel sample tasted en primeur in
April 2006, and I have given a remarkably different score. 17.5-18/20
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