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Château Larcis Ducasse

The history of Larcis Ducasse can be traced back to at least the 18th century, as documents from 1777 inform us of the existence of the property, and also clearly indicate that there was ongoing viticulture on the estate. The wines were purchased by the Libourne négociant Pierre Beylot, from the same family that established Château Peyraud. During the 19th century the estate was in the ownership of Pigasse of nearby Pavie for a short period of time, and at one point it was divided into two, but subsequently reunited some years later. The estate established a reputation for good wines, winning a gold medal in the Exposition Universelle in Paris in 1867, by which time it was in the ownership of the Ducasse family. Within a few decades the estate passed from the hands of Ducasse, coming to Hanri Raba in 1893. He and subsequently his wife and son André, who took over the running of the estate following Raba's death in 1925, invested heavily in the property. During World War II André died without an heir, and so the ownership of the estate passed to a niece, Hélène Gratiot Alphandéry, in 1941. With the help of the régisseur Pharaon Roche she ran the estate until 1990 when her own son, Jacques Olivier Gratiot, took hold of the reins. Today the estate remains in the ownership of the Gratiot Alphandéry family, as evinced by the label, but since 2002 in has been under the management of right bank whirlwind Nicolas Thienpont, of Pavie-Macquin and numerous other estates, with consultation from Stéphane Derenoncourt and Julien Lavenu.

The vineyard is located to the southeast of St Emilion, to the east of Château Pavie (these slopes are often referred to as the Côte de Pavie), lying on the boundary between the communes of St Emilion and St Laurent-des-Combes. There are 10.8 hectares of vines altogether, planted on a range of soil types. At the bottom of the slope, towards the Dordogne, the soils are naturally richer in alluvial deposits of sand, with some clay and chalk. Moving up the slope, there is a greater predominance of clay and limestone, as well as some molasses du Fronsadais, soft chalk with silt and clay. Towards the top of the slopes, chalk and then limestone and clay-limestone, with chalk beneath. The vines are 78% Merlot, the balance being 20% Cabernet Franc and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon, with an average age of 35 years, and planted at a density of 7500 vines/ha (older vines planted at 6000 vines/ha are gradually being replaced). The vineyard is managed on a sustainable basis, with light ploughing to aerate of the soil and interplanting with cereals in the winter. The labour is largely manual, namely debudding, leaf thinning and a green harvest in summer, and naturally the ripe fruit is also harvested by hand. The fruit goes over four sorting tables, and is destemmed, and is then vinified in temperature-controlled cement tanks. The wine undergoes malolactic in barrel, which are 60% new each vintage, and they rest here for up to 20 months. The grand vin is labelled as Larcis Ducasse.

Reviewing recent vintages of Larcis Ducasse, I don't think I am exaggerating when I say that, particularly since the involvement of Thienpont and Derenoncourt, many critics and wine drinkers alike have been swooning over the wines. The 2005 Larcis Ducasse is the obvious example, selling at four or five times the price of the 2004 or 2006 vintages, thanks to almost universal effusive praise, but most notably from Parker who awarded a tentative barrel score of 96-100. Other critics - Michel Bettane, Jancis Robinson, and others - also admire the wine, but I also see many comments which give me concern - "jamminess"...."hot on the palate"...."oily in a Californian way" - are comments from the tasting team at Farr Vintners at en primeur. Very few tasters mention freshness or acidity, except for Jancis who merely describes it as "uncomfortable". It is perhaps surprising that another Pavie-like row hasn't erupted.

When such diverse opinions exist perhaps the only way to decide for yourself is to taste the wine. Fortunately, I have twice had the opportunity to do this, and it is clear to me that for my palate this is not a 100 point wine. Or, indeed, a 20 point wine. Yes, the point-gathering opulence is there, but to me it was a little over the top, teetering on unbalanced, lacking the freshness and elegance that I look for in all wines, whether they be from the left or right banks, or indeed from anywhere outside Bordeaux. I must make clear, however, that my opinion of this wine is not purely negative; the 2005 Larcis Ducasse is a good wine, and most probably along with the 2004 and 2006 these wines are much better than the Larcis-Ducasse of old. It is just that I don't feel sufficiently moved to buy or drink them. Vive la différence, I suppose. (28/11/07)

Contact details:
Address: 33330 St Emilion
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 24 70 84
Fax: +33 (0) 5 57 24 64 00
Internet: www.nicolas-thienpont.com
GPS: 44.881168, -0.145526

Château Larcis Ducasse - Tasting Notes

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Château Larcis Ducasse (St Emilion) 2010: An intense, monotone crimson hue here. The fruit quality I find on the nose is very particular, showing a macerated black cherry note, dark yet also perfumed, with a freshness to it. The palate seems rather restrained considering the exuberant impact on the nose, the fruit showing a gentle polish. There is a bold texture, with lots of grip coming through at the end, and thankfully some bright acidity keeping it fresh. It has some remarkably perfumed fruit considering the density of colour and its concentration, and a long, tannic finish. This should do well in the cellar. A convincing showing in this vintage. From my Bordeaux 2010 primeurs assessment. 17-18/20 (April 2011)

Château Larcis Ducasse (St Emilion) 2009: There is an appealing fruit aroma here, concentrated black fruits, ripe but certainly towards the ripe end of the spectrum. But there is freshness, so this does not go over into sur maturité. A rather perfumed edge to the black fruits, giving a very light confected feel to it. A good substance on the very start of the palate and the inevitable build of the tannins into the midpalate, but whereas they are in the typically firm style of Larcis Ducasse the flesh copes with it all rather well. Dry in terms of structure, concentrated and sweet in terms of fruit, slightly bitter in terms of grip, I think this wine will settle down to give good pleasure in a decade or so. Alcohol 14.5%. From a tasting of 2009 Bordeaux at two years of age. 17.5/20 (October 2011)

Château Larcis Ducasse (St Emilion) 2009: Dense and slightly brawny fruit here, rather withdrawn in style. Lots of creamy presence on the palate, with a huge grippy, massively structured style. As usual Larcis Ducasse has a piles of tannin and extract. But there is also plenty of density here, and fruit in abundance. Grippy and savoury, dense, succulent but powerful. The extract at this estate sometimes jars, but I find that in this vintage it seems to be turbo-charged in all elements, not just extraction, so it works quite well I think. For once I find this impressive rather than just over-done. Still, a very modern style of St Emilion that will probably divide opinion. From my 2009 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 17.5-18.5+/20 (March 2010)

Château Larcis Ducasse (St Emilion) 2008: Dense, dark and concentrated in style as might be expected. There is a somewhat confit intensity to the fruit in the nose. Blackcurrant and blackberry puree. The palate has a richly polished but dry substance within which there resides a huge core of tannin and very firm acidity. It has a dry, savoury, masculine character, but it is the huge wall of ash-like tannin that dominates. Not as obtrusive as some though and it may come together with time - there is certainly the necessary fruit and acidity to go with it. Good potential. From a tasting of 2008 Bordeaux at two years of age. 17+/20 (October 2010)

Château Larcis Ducasse (St Emilion) 2008: A deep and dark style of fruit here, with notes of cola and black cherry. Big, rich, creamy, round and broad on the palate, with a lot of dry extract as well. Lots of substance, lots of meat too. The extraction is rather heavy but perhaps there is the fruit and intensity to carry this off? Finishes well. It will be good to review this in two years time. From my 2008 Bordeaux primeur assessment. 16.5-17.5+?/20 (April 2009)

Château Larcis Ducasse (St Emilion) 2007: A richly aromatic wine here, full of dark fruits, plums, liquorice and spice. More creamy fruit comes through on the palate, although the tannins show through in a very firm and hard style, with some related bitter charcoal notes. Despite this it seems better integrated and less overworked than some vintages of Larcis-Ducasse, and I think given time this could be good. From a tasting of 2007 Bordeaux at two years of age. 15.5+/20 (October 2009)

Château Larcis Ducasse (St Emilion) 2007: This is appealingly aromatic, with notes of vanilla, plum and bright summer pudding fruits. The palate is full, sweet and creamy, although it soon reveals a very hard extract beneath which is only partially covered by the overlying fruit. Firm acidity, a well structured wine, showing a chewy and drying grip at the finish. The extraction here is borderline, as with the 2005, so it will be interesting to see how this fairs once in bottle, but I think it could be very good indeed. From my 2007 Bordeaux en primeur assessment. 16-17+?/20 (April 2008)

Château Larcis Ducasse (St Emilion) 2006: As might be expected with Larcis-Ducasse a flashy nose, showing dense fruit and lashings of oak. Supple and creamy on entry, but a more gentle and broad midpalate. A lot of extract and tannin in evidence here, and not so much fruit to match. It doesn't come together sufficiently for me, and it culminates in a big, dense, dry tannic finish. A bit overdone for my tastes, although I think some love the style. From a tasting of 2006 St Emilion & Pomerol. 15.5/20 (October 2008)

Château Larcis Ducasse (St Emilion) 2006: Nutty and creamy fruit on the nose. A nice palate, a little jammy, plump and rounded, with some nice, ripe, grippy tannins beneath. Nicely put together so far, but I find it lacks freshness and vigour. Muted, lacking direction. Good but would be better if it had a touch more vivacity. From my 2006 Bordeaux assessment. 14-15/20 (April 2007)

Château Larcis Ducasse (St Emilion) 2005: Beautifully vibrant on the nose at first, although underneath there is also a current of raisined fruit, balsamic, liquorice, black bean and soy. A little gentle at the start, before the cream and extraction flows into the midpalate. There is still a huge amount of structure evident here, with masses of tannin, firm acidity and huge meaty-fruit flavour. Dark, brooding, but not fleshy or overly fat. With time this may all come together, but these tannins will need an awful long time to integrate, and the flavour profile won't appeal to all. From a 2005 Bordeaux tasting at four years of age. 17-17.5+/20 (November 2009)

Château Larcis Ducasse (St Emilion) 2005: An evocative nose, showing some rather hot and feral fruit character laced with some spicy plum. It starts off nicely on the palate, showing quite a high level of grippy tannins, but a good associated ripeness too, and also a nice acid backbone. There is good weight, and a lot of structure here. It is quite heavily extracted but there is a lot of substance to balance this out. Nevertheless, I find it to be teetering on the brink of being overdone. It is better than I rated it when tasting en primeur. From my tasting of 2005 Bordeaux at two years of age. 16.5-17.5+/20 (October 2007)

Château Larcis Ducasse (St Emilion) 2005: A property next door to Pavie, run by Stéphane Derenoncourt and Nicolas Thienpont since 2002. M 80%, CF 15%, CS 5%. An incredibly dense and opaque wine. The nose has appeal, still showing rather obvious toffee-caramel-vanilla ice cream character from the oak, with blueberry fruit. On the palate the wine is lighter than might be expected, and seems rather out of kilter if not disjointed. There is lovely ripeness and texture, but it is on the edge of tinny over-extraction. It will appeal to many, but not to me. More freshness, vibrancy and elegance, please. From my 2005 Bordeaux en primeur tasting. 15.5-16.5/20 (April 2006)

Château Larcis Ducasse (St Emilion) 2004: A lovely, very forward and open blackberry nose with a herby nuance. Svelte style, with supple tannins taking up position in the background, creamy texture nicely masking the structural elements. Great acidity, and very good style. From my Bordeaux 2004 assessment. 16.5+/20 (October 2006)

Château Larcis Ducasse (St Emilion) 1985: The most youthful colour of the two St Emilions, and indeed one of the most youthful appearances of any wine here. Lovely scents on the nose, pure crushed fruit with a floral, violet edge. Toffee, liquorice and cough-candy notes bring up the rear. Medium bodied, with hard, mineral-edge fruit. There are still some spicy tannins and some peppery acidity. The more elegant, floral characteristics show through on the finish. From a Bordeaux 1985 tasting. 17.5/20 (September 2002)