Bordeaux 2005 at Four Years: The Médoc Communes
By comparison with the Pessac line-up the left bank communes provide a somewhat over-facing array of tasting opportunities, and it is impossible to taste them all; after a certain number of wines the palate and mind join in uniform reticence to taste any more. Even if you were to unwisely soldier on, once the bottles start being cleared from the tables you know it is time to head back to the airport anyway!
The biggest draw here is the first growth trio of Mouton-Rothschild, Lafite-Rothschild and Margaux, although naturally this should only prompt the question as to why Latour should be absent. The reason isn’t clear, but since this estate’s last appearance with the 2002 vintage Frédéric Engerer and his team have not sent a sample over for this, perhaps the grandest of all UK tastings. It is a great shame for Latour not to be given the opportunity to shine alongside its first growth counterparts, and as a fan of the wine who has visited and tasted at the estate more than once I look forward to Latour making a triumphant return one day. For the moment though we are restricted to the two Rothschild estates and Margaux, and whereas the first two were both excellent wines (with the 2005 Mouton showing much very typical Mouton character), this is another vintage where I remain smitten more with the first growth of Margaux than with those in Pauillac. For me Margaux just pips the two Rothschild estates in terms of absolute quality and interest, with a fabulous perfume, oodles of Margaux typicity and a delicious depth.
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