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Pierre Luneau-Papin

The Luneau-Papins hail from a long line of vignerons. The Luneau family is well established in the region; their presence here, in Le Landreau, may be traced back as far as the late-17th century. The Papin family, meanwhile, originated in nearby Chapelle-Heulin, and had similarly deep roots. It was perhaps no surprise that Pierre Luneau-Papin, the thirteenth generation of his family to bear the name Pierre, should take up the secateurs and the life of a vigneron, just like his father, grandfather and indeed many other ancestors before him. He and his wife, Monique, were the seventh generation of vignerons to run Domaine Pierre de la Grange, which was founded by Pierre's forebears in the 18th century. Muscadet savants will know, however, that the wines are more likely to be found listed under the name of Luneau-Papin or even Pierre Luneau, than under the estate's true name of Pierre de la Grange.

Having studied at Briacé and gained experience with Emile Peynaud and Pascal Ribéreau-Gayon, both of the Faculty of Oenology at the University of Bordeaux, followed by vintage after vintage of succesful, energy-charged wines, it is no surprise that Pierre is widely considered to be one of Muscadet's leading lights. I suspect that we will one day look upon his son, Pierre-Marie Luneau (pictured below), in a similar light. Once returned to the region, having emulated his father by studying in Bordeaux, Pierre-Marie began to work alongside his mother and father on the domaine in 2005. And with the 2011 vintage he has taken full control for the first time, allowing Pierre, the doyen of the domaine, to take on a new role in keeping with his status; emeritus vigneron.

Vineyards and Vinification

There are approximately 40 hectares of vines at Marie-Pierre's disposal, with 38 hectares planted to Melon de Bourgogne and the remaining 2 hectares committed to red varieties, including Gamay and Merlot. The vineyards are situated in Le Landreau, Vallet and La Chapelle Heulin, about 20 kilometres from Nantes itself, and the heart of the Sèvre et Maine region. This is a landscape characterised by gently rolling vineyards and varied terroirs including micaschist, gneiss and schist, as well as exotic rocks of volcanic origin, not least the evocatively named serpentine. The vines have a good age, forty-five years on average although some are well into their seventh decade. Although a significant proportion of the vineyards are machine-harvested, not uncommon for the rated Muscadet region, where price point is everything, the fruit destined for the very best cuvées is hand harvested, usually by a team of students from Nantes. Once the fruit is in the immaculate winery it is handled in a very traditional manner, the most notable deviation being the occasional use of macération pelliculaire, essentially macerating the lightly pressed grapes in the must, before continuing with the vinification. The fruit is taken through a gentle pressing followed by fermentation, principally in subterranean vats lined with glass, a traditional method within the region. Once this is finished the wines are then transferred into stainless steel, still with the lees, where they are stored until ready for the bottle the following year; this latter part of the process is that which entitles the wines to the sur lie suffix, of course.

The Wines of Domaine Luneau-Papin

There is a broad and varied range of cuvées produced here, which in many cases reflect vineyard or terroir of origin. The leading cuvées are the L d'Or, a weighty expression of Melon de Bourgogne, the Muscadet grape, which frequently has the substance needed for long ageing, and the Excelsior Clos des Noëlles, a single vineyard cuvée representing one of the new Muscadet crus communaux (see part two of my guide to Muscadet for more detail). The first of this pair is the longest established, and visitors to the cellars may be fortunate enough to experience some older examples from Pierre's stock, from an oenological library which extends back more than 30 years.

The L d'Or cuvée is sourced from vines more than 45 years old grown on gneiss, granite and mica terroirs in Vallet, one of the Sèvre et Maine communes. The vines are cared for along the lines of lutte raisonnée, and are nourished with just a little organic manure. The fruit is harvested by hand, pressed using pneumatic equipment, and the juice is then allowed to settle before a four week temperature-controlled fermentation by indigenous yeasts, regulated to 20ºC. There is also a warmer macération pelliculaire, a period of skin contact, at 30ºC. The wine is then stored sur lie for nine months before bottling.

The result is one of the grandest and most sought after examples of the Muscadet Sèvre et Maine appellation in existence. Although recent years have seen some very good publicity for the Muscadet appellation, the troisième niveau wines like the Granite de Clisson from Marc Ollivier or indeed Luneau-Papin's Excelsior Clos des Noëlles garnering due praise, and the creation of the crus communaux another very positive development, we should not forget that predating these developments domaines such as Luneau-Papin have been turning out classically styled Muscadet, fully in keeping with the sur lie designation (meaning that it is bottled before the end of November in the year during the harvest, as opposed to the troisième niveau cuvées which often see out several years on the lees) for many years if not decades. These efforts can still be tasted today within the L d'Or cuvée, in older vintages as far back as the 1976.

The Clos des Noëlles (often simply referred to as Excelsior) is a little different, a cuvée born of a commitment and belief in a terroir, the Schistes de Goulaine, in La Chapelle Heulin, another of the many Muscadet communes. Indeed it is perhaps the closest the region comes to a recognised cru, and Luneau-Papin have been lobbying the INAO for appropriate recognition of the site since at least 2001, with this cuvée as their principal evidence. The vines are at least 65 years old and are planted on a south-facing slope of schist and micaschist. As with the L d'Or, the vineyard sees organic manure and lutte raisonnée, the harvest is by hand and the yields are between 25 and 35 hl/ha. The cellar work starts out in a similar fashion also, with a pneumatic pressing followed by settling, cool fermentation and natural fermentation without chaptalisation, but thereafter the two cuvées diverge. Rather than the traditional nine months sur lie, this wine sees 36 months en cuve, with regular bâtonnage before it sees the inside of a bottle. This is a remarkable undertaking for a leading domaine that in every other respect seems very traditional; the wines themselves, on tasting, are no less fascinating and they certainly remain true to Muscadet, although in a richer, more intense style.

It is tempting to suggest, with only a few vintages released, that the jury should remain out on the Terres de Pierre de la Butte de la Roche cuvée. Nevertheless, there is clear potential for greatness here, a fact evident even with the first two vintage, and this seems convincing enough to outweigh my perhaps more cautious approach. The wine's origin is the lieu-dit referred to as Butte de a Roche in the commune of Loroux-Bottereau. The terroir here is distinctive, being decomposed serpentine, although this does not seem to strongly influence practises in the vineyard which are very similar to those described above. The fruit is hand-harvested before fermentation in a glass-lined subterranean vat, followed by twelve months in stainless steel sur lie before bottling. The end result is a minerally but also structured wine which had me reviewing and reshaping my opinion of serpentine as yielding wines which tend towards the lighter, more easy-drinking style of Muscadet. Like the Excelsior and L d'Or cuvées, the Terres de Pierre should do very well with some time in the cellar.

At the end of my tasting with Pierre-Marie Luneau in early 2011, we came to the 2005 Pueri Solis (label shown left), a wine that was introduced - with an almost apologetic tone - as an experimental cuvée. Having seen out 42 months sur lie, including 15 months in small vats, followed by a malolactic fermentation, this is certainly not your everyday Muscadet. I've read some swooning reports on the wine, and I imagine the rather exotic fruit profile, found both within the aromatics and on the palate, would appeal to many. Having said that, I find it misses the cut and verve of the best Muscadets, and I'm hoping that it remains a one-off so that the team at Luneau-Papin can focus on the other cuvées, so much more typical of the appellation, which are of such high quality.

With such a grand array it is too easy to overlook the remaining wines, but we would be doing a disservice to ourselves to do so. Close to the above in terms of quality and popularity with Muscadet addicts is the Clos des Allées cuvée. This originates from the lieu-dit of the same name, which belongs to Domaine Luneau-Papin in entirety. Located near le Landreau, the vines here are planted on a south-facing slope, the terroir underfoot dominated by micaschist. The handling here is as expected, a pneumatic pressing followed by fermentation in the glass-lined underground vats, and the wine then spends seven months on the lees before bottling. Although the wine does not seem to garner the praise or the listings that the L d'Or enjoys, the quality here can be admirable and very typical of the appellation.

There is also Les Pierres Blanches, an old vines cuvée from a south-west facing schistous terroir near La Chapelle Heulin. The vines have more than 55 years behind them, and they and the eventual fruit are handled just as for the L d'Or and other wines described above. The harvest is by hand, the pressing pneumatic and the fermentation is cool. A proportion of the wine, perhaps 20%, will undergo macération pelliculaire. The time spent sur lie is nine months.

The entry-level Domaine Pierre de la Grange label is comes in standard and Vieilles Vignes formats; both sourced from vines planted on micaschist, gneiss and mica around Le Landreau, the latter is obviously distinguished by the age of the vines, which on average are more than 35 years old. Otherwise, once again, it is handled very much like the L d'Or, except the wines are bottled after seven months sur lie. Completing the portfolio, alongside these examples of the Sèvre et Maine appellation, usually bottled after a period of time sur lie, is a Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire and the L Brut, a vin mousseux de qualité made from 40% Melon de Bourgogne, 30% Folle Blanche, 20% Chardonnay and 10% Cabernet Franc all planted around Landreau (on schist) and Vallet (on gneiss), as well as a number of simple table wines made from Merlot, Gamay, Chardonnay and Melon de Bourgogne.

Luneau-Papin: Tasting & Drinking

Having tasted a range of Luneau-Papin wines, including a good selection of L d'Or, both newly released and with considerable age on them, it is clear that quality across the board is very high indeed here. The L d'Or and Excelsior Clos de Noëlles are both very special wines, each one a real vin de garde of the Nantais, and I have experienced many different vintages. Quality here is obviously a consistent feature. These wines are worth buying, cellaring and savouring, and what is more mature vintages can often be found at a very good price. More recent additions to the portfolio probably deserve more considered assessment, although my feeling is that the Terres de Pierre de la Butte de la Roche is a superb addition to the range, expressing its serpentine terroir in quite an unexpected - but still very delicious - manner. As for the Pueri Solis, although I applaud experimentation and change, I am not so convinced by the final result here. I look forward to tasting it again in the future though, just to see if I have been proved wrong. (29/11/07, updated 20/5/09, 9/11/11)

Contact details:
Address: 44430 Le Landreau
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 40 06 45 27
Fax: +33 (0) 2 40 06 46 62
Internet: www.domaineluneaupapin.com
GPS: 47.189332, -1.329617

Pierre Luneau-Papin - Tasting Notes

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Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Brut de Cuve Number 1 2010: This is from a schistous terroir, and it shows a very perfumed and fresh, aromatic style. On the palate it kicks off with a soft, youthful, soapstone character, and although it has an appealing minerality in the midpalate, and good acidity, it does feel quite fat in the mouth. There is lots of grip in the finish though. Overall, plump but perfumed, chalky and minerally. Full of adolescent promise. An update from the 2011 Salon. 16/20 (February 2011)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Brut de Cuve Number 2 2010: This is a sample from Les Pierres Blanches, a plot of old vines planted on a schistous terroir, usually bottled as a single cuvée. This has a greater expression of minerals here, with a perfumed and sherbetty weight. The palate has a supple rather than fat feel to it, and is showing a good minerally quality. Supple, full of exciting character, with great acidity. Lots of vigour here; this should be very good. An update from the 2011 Salon. 17/20 (February 2011)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Brut de Cuve Number 3 2010: This sample originates from a mixed gneiss and granite terroir, a plot of vines on a small hill overlooking the Goulaine river. This is destined for the L d'Or cuvée. An impressively stony, minerally, lemon and thyme character here, the minerals having a particularly salty edge. Very expressive, full of substance but bright and fresh, balanced too. It has a rather more restrained grip and minerally composition on the palate than the nose suggested, but it is all here. An update from the 2011 Salon. 17.5/20 (February 2011)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Brut de Cuve Number 4 2010: This particular brut de cuve sample comes from a serpentine terroir. It has a rather fresh, crisp, open style on the nose. From 36-year old vines. This has a soft but lively, minerally character, with rather a green fruit edge to it. It seems rather more full and plump on the palate, although underneath it has quite a firm style. A nice grip to it. Not a supple or easy-going cuvée despite its serpentine origins. Attractive. Although Pierre-Marie didn't comment, it's likely that this is from the Butte de la Roche. An update from the 2011 Salon. 17/20 (February 2011)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Brut de Cuve Number 5 2010: This sample is destined for the Excelsior cuvée. It is certainly aromatically very impressive, with an intense, polished-stone style here. I find the same on the palate, and there is a supple yet sparkly minerality here, broadening out into a very soft style, very open and relaxed, before it then tightens up, becoming towards the finish a really quite intense and grippy wine. There are hidden depths here. Lovely potential. An update from the 2011 Salon. 17.5/20 (February 2011)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Pierre de la Grange 2009:  This is sourced from seven plots of vines aged at least 35 years, planted near Le Landreau on micaschist and gneiss. Attractive, fresh, ripe character on the nose. It has a very clean style, perhaps showing a lower concentration than I expected, perhaps reflecting the youth of the vines. It has a nice presence and structure on the palate though, supple, appealing and open, leading into a sappy, grippy finish. There is plenty of typicity here but it does feel a bit loose and softly focused on the palate. An update from the 2011 Salon. 15/20 (February 2011)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Les Pierres Blanches 2009: From the Pierres Blanches vineyard near Le Landreau, a single plot of vines aged between 55 and 60 years. The soils are mica-schist and schist. The wine, which has seen seven months sur lie, has a lovely, stony character on the nose, and on the palate it shows a supple style. Rather polished, with the ripeness it seems to possess giving it a slightly softer feel, and there is a nicely relaxed minerality. These latter elements have a subtle presence. Overall, attractive. An update from the 2011 Salon. 15.5/20 (February 2011)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Terre de Pierre de la Butte de la Roche 2009: From a serpentine terroir recently taken on by Luneau-Papin. A relaxed, supple feel to the nose, although lifted with notes of thyme and crunchy, salted lemon slices here. Rather soft and rounded on the palate at first, with rather a fat substance coming through the middle as well. Underneath it all though, there is a crisp, crunchy and minerally acidity. This seems at present to be very bold and structured, with rather a ripe, fat style overall. This has the build and substance to age well, despite (my perhaps erroneous) preconceptions about serpentine soils. The big and grippy finish only reinforces this conclusion. An update from the 2011 Salon. 17/20 (February 2011)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 2009: From vines aged at least 45 years planted on granite and gneiss near Vallet. It has seen between 9 and 11 months sur lie before blending and bottling. A lovely intensity from the granite here, almost a smoky minerality on the nose which has a reserved but undeniable appeal. Rather a supple start on the palate, quite broad and polished, slowly evolving a mineral seam as I hold it in the mouth, elegant and yet with a firm structure to it. This has a lot of appeal. An impressive tension, with lots of minerality, especially in the finish. Certainly good potential here. An update from the 2011 Salon. 18/20 (February 2011)

Four brut de cuve samples, which I report on for here academic interest; it was enlightening to taste the influence of the differing terroirs here, and to see the effect of later harvest.

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Brut de Cuve Number 2 2008: An unfinished sample from a schistous terroir; good ripe and fresh minerality on the nose, a crisp style, slightly stony, slightly fat. It has good grip and bite on the palate, a really fresh and bright style, and a touch of power too. A nice sample. An update from the 2009 Salon. 16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Brut de Cuve Number 3 2008: An unfinished sample from a granite terroir. A more restrained style here, but stylish in terms of fruit quality. Fine minerally acidity on the palate from the outset, with lots of lively grip, good depth of flavour and a little touch of bitterness which I like. Nice sample. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Brut de Cuve Number 4 2008: An unfinished sample from a vineyard rich in serpentinite, a volcanic rock. Very firm minerality here, lively acid and very good definition, with good ripe fruit hiding underneath. Stylish. I like this wine. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Brut de Cuve Number 5 2008: An unfinished sample from another serpentinite-rich site, but here with a south-west aspect, harvested 12 days later. A fuller character on the nose, ripe, sweet and aromatic. Not as lively as Number 4, richer instead, but there is still good acidity here. A fascinating comparison. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Terre de Pierre de la Butte de la Roche 2008: This is the first vintage for this new cuvée. It has a much more striking and, to me, a much more appealing, mineral-infused nose than even the 2009 vintage. This early promise gives way to a more solid feel on the palate, polished white stone fruit rubbed with thyme, this sensation coming through as a stony substance to it as well. It all concentrates down into a very focused minerality in the finish, which was also seen - albeit less intensely - in the 2009 vintage. Superb wines from what is evidently a great terroir. An update from the 2011 Salon. 17.5/20 (February 2011)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Pierre de la Grange 2007: The fruit here is assembled from a number of small plots on schistous soils around the winery. The vines are young. It has a nice nose, being clean and a little minerally-steely. Nice mouthfeel too, fresh with firm acids, full style with lots of power. Good but perhaps rather fierce in its character and acid backbone. An update from the 2009 Salon. 15+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Pierre de la Grange Vieilles Vignes 2007: Obviously, the fruit from older vines. A better nose than the preceding cuvée, more expressive, with pure and bright white fruit presented in an attractive and maybe even honeyed style. The palate is broad, full, with plenty of good acidity but also more substance. Good old-vine quality here. Slightly bitter, which I like, with lots of structure, this will age well. An update from the 2009 Salon. 16.5+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Les Pierres Blanches 2007: Les Pierres Blanches is the name of the vineyard; it is a single plot of vines, aged between 55 and 60 years, with soils of mica-schist and schist. There is a good, elegant, stony nose. The palate has nice definition but is also rounded, rather polished, well balanced, with good bright acidity. I like this one. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 2007: This has a youthful and stony nose. There follows a very convincing style on the palate though, full and rather precise. Imbued as it is with sweet lemon-sherbet fruit, this is still very clearly a young wine at the moment. It has an enticing acid core, but despite the robust structure it maintains a balanced feel rather than being overly firm. Another impressive vintage, and one in need of the cellar. An update from the 2011 Salon. 17.5/20 (February 2011)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 2007: Largely a granite terroir for this cuvée. This has a great, ripe, open nose, stylish and elegant, with a very satisfying character on the palate. Rounded and polished it calls to mind a creamy-white stone, with its minerality and beauty combined. Rich yet refined, this is lovely now - but clearly has great potential for the cellar. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17.5+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Clos des Noëlles Excelsior 2007: From vines aged at least 75 years near Chapelle-Heulin, planted on schist and micaschist. This has seen out 36 months on its lees. A finely poised nose, showing stone fruit with a bright and open minerality. Crunchy and defined, this is the sort of nose I look for in the very best Muscadet. Just lovely. There is a sappy substance on the palate, with white fruit, but with a gentle, appropriate supporting structure. A delicious composition, with building acid and minerals throughout, but still very fine. In the finish it is all minerals, acid and grip. Very long with great potential here. An update from the 2011 Salon. 17.5/20 (February 2011)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Clos des Noëlles Excelsior 2006: Compared to the 2007 just tasted this wine has a richer, softer, soapstone minerality on the nose, and is also a touch more perfumed. This rather more obvious aromatic profile is matched by a rather fatter style on the palate, broad and stylish, but nicely cut through by plenty of bright, needling minerality here. It is certainly rich but is also characterful, polished, albeit with a lightly oily feel to it. Lots of substance here, an impressive style, given time this will be great. An update from the 2011 Salon. 17.5/20 (February 2011)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 2005: A polished and rather soapy nose here, with more evocative fruit than in the younger wines right now, peach in particular. It holds a lovely texture, from the warmth of the vintage perhaps, but still has a very stylish presence. The palate gives notes of spices and a bready richness too. This is one of the most impressive and seductive wines so far; I find it enticing, although purists might reject its rather alluring fruit. It finishes up with an incredible richness and mineral-coating of the palate. Delicious, and should do well in the cellar. An update from the 2011 Salon. 18/20 (February 2011)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 2005: A beautiful nose here, hugely expressive, with fabulously open fruit with a ripe and sweet but very fresh character. Great style, lovely purity, gentle and warm and rounded. It has some stony acidity although it is not quite so well defined as some of the other cuvées - the effect of a warmer vintage, perhaps? Rich but it still has a lovely style and freshness. Impressive. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17.5-18+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Clos des Noëlles Excelsior 2005: This wine seems to have shaken off a little of its youthful exuberance, and shows a wonderfully balanced style of minerally fruit today. It seems very composed and polished, even though there is a slightly honeyed texture, which thankfully seems very well integrated with the wine. There is fine acidity and a fresh, bold structure to it, supporting the wine's wonderful substance. A fabulous wine. An update from the 2011 Salon. 18/20 (February 2011)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Clos des Noëlles Excelsior 2005: This particular cuvée doesn't seem to have a very expressive nose today. On the palate it has lovely fresh acidity, nicely composed, although it has quite a ripe style, minerally with a chalky acid backbone. Quite mouthfilling in terms of weight, creamy, with a lovely acid bite at the finish. This has fine potential, although I think I prefer the L d'Or in the same vintage - just. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17-17.5+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Pueri Solis 2005: An experiment, this has seen 42 months sur lie, including 15 months in small vats, and malolactic fermentation. A blend from vines aged at least 45 years, planted on schist and micaschist terroirs around Le Landreau. A sweet, honeyed and very peachy nose. Despite that impression of sweet ripeness this has just 4 g/l. On the palate it has a polished feel, certainly showing a smoother acid backbone than the other wines, but there are also flavour differences, this having more savoury elements, with more dense and slightly sweeter fruit. It has a rather full style although it still has that tingling grip at the end. More subdued minerality and acid but it is still here. This is good, but I don't find here the vigour I want. Just 5000 bottles produced. An update from the 2011 Salon. 16.5/20 (February 2011)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 2003: Despite the obvious reputation that the 2003 vintage possesses, this wine wants to buck the trend with a minerally, lemony perfume on the nose. It is expressive, polished and very fine in terms of style. On the palate it does seem rather fatter, quite broad, polished, lightly honeyed even, and even though the acidity seems subdued there is some nice definition from the minerality. This begins as a thin seam at first, then building in the middle of the wine, giving it a surprisingly fine style. Overall a really appealing character here, and not typical of the hot vintage, even with its big finish. An update from the 2011 Salon. 17.5/20 (February 2011)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 2003: This shows even more honeyed fruit than the 2005, with elements that only come from maturity. This is evolving nicely, showing richness and minerality combined. The palate is very attractive, a sort of sweet-stony combination, with lots of midpalate acidity for balance. This has impressive character, especially considering this was such a warm vintage. I think with time it could surpass the 2005. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17.5-18+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Clos des Noëlles Excelsior 2003: This is much richer and more expressive than the corresponding 2005. The palate is fine, superbly defined despite the warmth of the vintage, with a broad although very fine acidity. Elegant yet ripe, nicely balanced, with an appealing bitter finish. This is very, very good indeed. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17.5+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Clos des Noëlles Excelsior 2002: This is evolving very nicely, and today shows a rather gentle, honeyed, peach and stone fruit nose. Then on the palate it reveals a great depth, with a fine substance, broad, balanced and stylish, with the combination of a lovely seam of acid and minerality. There is a touch of smoke here too. This has a fine composition, seeming so harmonious and composed on this tasting, leading into a lovely, spicy, mineral grip in the finish. This seems much more convincing than my last taste, and the transformation here - comparing this to the younger vintages - is very exciting. An update from the 2011 Salon. 18.5/20 (February 2011)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Clos des Noëlles Excelsior 2002: This has a finely muted nose in comparison to the preceding wines. nevertheless the palate shows some lovely substance, quiet full and broad, with a ripe substance. The acidity is fresh and attractive, although a little muted related to its peers. There is a good stony edge though, nice ripeness, and a firm character. An attractive wine, I think this will do very well given time. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 1999: Lots of fine, evolving character here, stony freshness and lovely ripeness combined. Gentle and composed, elegant and rounded, with maturing fruit, the palate shows a very nice integration of acidity behind the clean, maturing style. Still plenty of potential for development here, although just fine now, approaching ten years of age. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 1997: There is honey on the nose here, rich and minerally in its character. The palate has a lovely structure, very integrated and stylish, with a fine, honeycomb edge to the pure and stony fruit. Rounded, rich and rather better composed than some of the younger wines, with sweet fruit at the finish. A very impressive wine which is still on the way up. An update from the 2009 Salon. 17.5+/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 1996: An attractive depth of colour, a very pale lemon-green gold, suggesting a richness which certainly shows through on the nose, which offers up aromas of smoke, thyme, garrigue and crisp minerals aplenty. The palate is fresh, crisp, laser-like in its precision, with desperately straight acidity backed up by just a little flesh which is mouth-watering when in combination with the crisp, acidic structure. On the midpalate and towards the finish it has a zippy character, with an appealingly sour, slightly sherbetty edge, with a little sea-salt character, that just keeps me coming back for more. But I think it is the fabulous acidity cutting through the ample, slightly rounded style that really sells it to me. This is just divine. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 18/20 (February 2007)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 1995: This vintage spent ten months sur lie,  and saw no oak and no malolactic. It has now had fourteen years in bottle. Aromatically it has an intense, lemon-zesty nose, with mineral suggestions but also touches of peach coming in, rather akin to the 2005. The palate has a rather supple and polished feel, is broad and rather spicy, with complex tones of vanilla and star anise also showing through. There is also a very fine acid core coming up, bright and lively, through the middle of the wine. It has a big, long, spicy-minerally finish. Excellent showing here, perhaps not quite so bright as I would like, but it comes across much better than my last tasting back in 2007. An update from the 2011 Salon. 17/20 (February 2011)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 1995: This has a pale, lemon-golden hue. A really characteristic nose follows, very lemony, with a touch of suggested richness, overall a sort of lemon-cream effect, although it is not opulent at all. It seems dry, perhaps a little herby and salty. The palate is fairly lean and has an attractive, slightly sour character related to the firm, biting acidity. There is a little weight and substance to counteract this, but not much. Fresh, building a little weight through the midpalate, up to a well rounded finish, all the time with that firm acidity cutting through it, even as the wine lingers in the finish, as it does for a little time. Still potential here I think. 16+/20 (November 2007)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 1993: In this vintage the nose has aromas of peach stone, with exotic and smoky fruits, and pine kernels, backed up by a stony, sea salt minerality. It has a well defined, vigorous character on the palate, with fresh acidity. Nicely textured, dry, forceful but gentle and grippy, this wine, although slightly detached, is just brilliant. There is a chalky extract on finish, and some length too. Overall, an amazing, eye-opening wine, of very good quality indeed. 17.5/20 (November 2007)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 1990: This, the oldest of the four wines tasted here, has a rich but bright and vibrant golden hue. There is a little bit of honey on the nose, coating the aromas of seashells, smoke and freshly squeezed citrus fruit. The palate is fresh and precise, tense and clean. There is substance here though, this is not so much light and pure as light and gritty. Quite direct overall, a little diffuse at first but then brighter and better defined, eventually revealing a deep pool of texture, weight and bitter, savoury, delicious flavour. Clean, full of lean character, yet also substance and with a good length too. Not my favourite of the group, but very, very good nevertheless. This wine may have a lot more to give yet. 17.5+/20 (November 2007)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 1989: Wow - a fabulous nose here, very expressive, with golden fruits just leaping from the glass, with freshness, stone and even some minerality evident in the aromatic profile. The palate is just great; broad, softening, gentle, with wonderful integration. Pure and linear, with great acids, laser-like in their precision, but with a ripe and rounded style of fruit draped on top. This has wonderful composition, rich and pure too. An update from the 2009 Salon. 18/20 (February 2009)

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 1982: There is unbelievable purity and life on the nose here, with fresh and unsullied aromas of honeycomb and mineral. The palate is remarkable; it has density, concentration and just stacks of characterful and expressive fruit. On the finish, this wine just goes on and on; it is remarkable! What a great example of how well Muscadet, from the right producer and the right vintage, can age. An update from the 2009 Salon. 18.5/20 (February 2009)