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Pierre Luneau-Papin
The man in charge of one of the leading domaines of the Nantais, Pierre Luneau-Papin, hails from a long line of vignerons. The Luneau family is well established in the region; their presence here may be traced as far back as the late 17th Century, and Pierre Luneau is the thirteenth generation of his family to bear the name Pierre. Together with his wife, Monique, Pierre runs Domaine Pierre de la Grange, which was founded by his forebears in the 18th Century. Muscadet savants will know, however, that that wines are more likely to be found listed under Luneau-Papin or even Pierre Luneau, than under the estate's true name of Pierre de la Grange.
Having studied at Briacé and gained experience with Emile Peynaud and Pascal Ribéreau-Gayon, both of the Faculty of Oenology at the University of Bordeaux, it is perhaps no surprise that Luneau-Papin is one of Muscadet's leading lights. In his immaculate winery, Pierre takes his hand-harvested fruit - already he sets himself apart from many of his peers in this region dominated by the machine harvester - and he proceeds to vinify in small batches according to the origin of the fruit.
There are approximately 30 hectares of vines at Pierre's disposal, situated in Le Landreau, Vallet and La Chapelle Heulin, not far from Nantes itself. This is a landscape characterised by gently rolling vineyards (hence the harvesters), and variable terroir, which as well as the sandy soils which are perhaps the first to mind when thinking of the region, also include micaschist, gneiss and schist, and sometimes rocks of volcanic origin. The vines have a good age, over forty years on average although some are well into their seventh decade. Once the fruit is in his hands, Pierre will take it through a gentle pressing with the option of a maceration pelliculaire (essentially macerating the lightly pressed grapes in the must, before continuing with the vinification) followed by temperature-controlled fermentation on the lighter lees. The wines are then run off into stainless steel, still with the lees, where they are stored until ready for the bottle the following year; this latter part of the process is that which entitles the wines to the sur lie suffix.
As might be imagined with an enquiring and imaginative mind such as Luneau-Papin's, there are a number of cuvées produced here, which in many cases reflect vineyard of origin. The leading cuvee is the L d'Or, a weighty expression of Melon de Bourgogne, the Muscadet grape, which frequently has the substance needed for long ageing, and visitors to the cellars may be fortunate enough to experience some older examples from Pierre's stock. Then there are the Clos des Allées, Clos du Poyet and Les Pierres Blanches bottlings, both single vineyard cuvées, as well as a straight Domaine Pierre de la Grange label. All are examples of the Sèvre et Maine appellation, bottled after a period of time sur lie, but there is also a Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire. In short, quality across the board is very high indeed, and it is quite clear to me that here, particularly in the shape of Le Ld'Or, that we have one of the true vins de garde of the Nantais. (29/11/07)
Contact details:
Address: 44430 Le Landreau
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 40 06 46 62
Fax: +33 (0) 2 40 06 46 62
Pierre Luneau-Papin - Tasting Notes
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Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sevre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 1996: An attractive depth of colour, a very
pale lemon-green gold, suggesting a richness which certainly shows through on
the nose, which offers up aromas of smoke, thyme, garrigue and crisp minerals
aplenty. The palate is fresh, crisp, laser-like in its precision, with
desperately straight acidity backed up by just a little flesh which is
mouth-watering when in combination with the crisp, acidic structure. On the
midpalate and towards the finish it has a zippy character, with an appealingly
sour, slightly sherbetty edge, with a little sea-salt character, that just keeps
me coming back for more. But I think it is the fabulous acidity cutting through
the ample, slightly rounded style that really sells it to me. This is just
divine. For label images and more see my
Wine of the Week write-up.
18/20 (February 2007)
Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sevre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 1995: This has
a pale, lemon-golden hue. A really characteristic nose follows, very lemony,
with a touch of suggested richness, overall a sort of lemon-cream effect,
although it is not opulent at all. It seems dry, perhaps a little herby and
salty. The palate is fairly lean and has an attractive, slightly sour character
related to the firm, biting acidity. There is a little weight and substance to
counteract this, but not much. Fresh, building a little weight through the
midpalate, up to a well rounded finish, all the time with that firm acidity
cutting through it, even as the wine lingers in the finish, as it does for a
little time. Still potential here I think. 16+/20 (November 2007)
Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sevre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 1993: In this
vintage the nose has aromas of peach stone, with exotic and smoky fruits, and
pine kernels, backed up by a stony, sea salt minerality. It has a well defined,
vigorous character on the palate, with fresh acidity. Nicely textured, dry,
forceful but gentle and grippy, this wine, although slightly detached, is just
brilliant. There is a chalky extract on finish, and some length too. Overall, an
amazing, eye-opening wine, of very good quality indeed. 17.5/20 (November 2007)
Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sevre et Maine sur lie Le L d'Or 1990:
This, the oldest of the four wines tasted here, has a rich but bright and
vibrant golden hue. There is a little bit of honey on the nose, coating the
aromas of seashells, smoke and freshly squeezed citrus fruit. The palate is
fresh and precise, tense and clean. There is substance here though, this is not
so much light and pure as light and gritty. Quite direct overall, a little
diffuse at first but then brighter and better defined, eventually revealing a
deep pool of texture, weight and bitter, savoury, delicious flavour. Clean, full
of lean character, yet also substance and with a good length too. Not my
favourite of the group, but very, very good nevertheless. This wine may have a
lot more to give yet. 17.5+/20 (November 2007)
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