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Château Sénéjac Haut-Médoc 2010

There are many sides to Bordeaux, and one that is too easily overlooked – usually in favour of the most famous, drool-worthy labels – is the huge wealth of well-made and good value wines that the region offers.

You could argue that Bordeaux-focused wine writers, critics, or hangers-on – call us what you will – are partly to blame for this, and I am not pointing the finger solely at others. I also hold my own hand up. Tasting trips to the region tend to involve completing the same circuit of Bordeaux, visiting the same châteaux over and over again, and tasting the same few hundred wines, ad infinitum.

Land at Bordeaux. Complete the circuit. Go home. Write up the notes. And return in six months (or thereabouts) to do it all again.

The rather sad consequence of this is that the petits châteaux, for want of a better description, often don’t feature at all.

I don’t think Bordeaux commentary will ever shift from this model. In the future the timing of the tastings might change (people keep telling me the primeur system is about to collapse, so I have to write this, even if it has been ‘about to collapse’ for the past 10 or 15 years), but whether wines are tasted en primeur, or just after bottling, a few years down the line when they are supposedly ‘ready to drink’, or at ten years, it is always these most famous names which will dominate.

It is important to find balance though, to give other wines their moment in the limelight. This is why I always ensure I attend the annual Cru Bourgeois tastings in London, and publish my notes online. And why I also like to feature less famous but good value wines in my Weekend Wine reports from time to time.

Château Sénéjac is a case in point.

Château Sénéjac Haut-Médoc 2010

An ancient domaine located in Le Pian-Médoc, sandwiched between the city of Bordeaux (to the south) and the Margaux appellation (to the north), Sénéjac has a history which stretches back to at least the 15th century. It is a property of which value-sensitive drinkers of Bordeaux should be aware, paying particular attention to vintages from 2000 onwards; this was when it came into the hands of the Cordier family, proprietors of Château Talbot.

In the early years following the acquisition it was who Lorraine Cordier who took the reins, and in 2009 she engaged the services of the Tesseron family, who had by that time transformed Château Pontet-Canet (see my recent Weekend Wine reports on the 1994 and 2004 vintages for more on that). Their influence was immediately transmitted through to the wine, as the quality in the 2009 and 2010 vintages at Sénéjac were obvious to see. Of course, the benevolent growing seasons probably also helped.

Tragically, Lorraine Cordier died in 2011, and her sister Nancy Bignon-Cordier assumed responsibility. And while the relationship with the Tesserons ended, some years later another talented figure entered the scene. The Cordier family appointed Jean-Michel Laporte, previously of Château La Conseillante, as managing director of Château Talbot, and part of his remit was to oversee work at Château Sénéjac as well. Sénéjac thus remains an estate worth following and – provided the note, score and price are all correct – buying for future drinking.

For drinking right now, though, I think the 2010 Château Sénéjac is in a very good place. It displays an attractive density of hue in the glass, with an appealing nose which opens with a blast of smoky charcoal, before it reveals rather dark and exotic aromas of liquorice and black olive, with a mouth-watering, saline drive. The palate is just delicious as the nose suggests, with salted black hedgerow fruits, here laced with tobacco, olive, cigar box and toasted fruits, set in a substantial texture, and still showing a quite charming and peppery grip. Such delicious balance and drive here, through to the long, powdery and textural finish. A super result from Sénéjac, in a great vintage, and great value too. The alcohol on the label is 13.5%. 92/100 (4/8/25)

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