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Château Léoville-Barton 2004

Did I say I was done with the 2004 vintage for now?

Oops! Yes I did. But look what’s just turned up at the back of the cellar. So, once again, here we are back in 2004. I promise that this will the last time though.

Well. Probably the last.

Chalk me up as having a soft spot for Léoville-Barton and its wines. The family running it in my lifetime, namely Anthony Barton (1930 – 2022), succeeded by his daughter Lilian Barton-Sartorius, and with the next generation Mélanie and Damien also involved, are painfully unassuming and grounded. This is despite the fact that they make one of the best wines in all Bordeaux, from some of the best terroir on the left bank, in a property which carries one of the region’s most historic names, Léoville, the name of an ancient seigneurie held by Pierre-Jean de Las Cases (1750 – 1815), Marquis de Las Cases de Beauvoir.

The contrast between the grandeur of the history and heritage, with the approachability of the family (and their wines, after a decade or two in the cellar, yum-yum) is striking.

Of course the full history of the property is presented in my profile of Léoville-Barton, over six pages of history, detail and tasting notes, so there is little point regurgitating it here, although perhaps an abridged look at the Barton family’s presence is worthwhile. Thomas Barton (1695 – 1780) was the first member of the family to arrive on these shores, one of Ireland’s ‘Wild Geese’ who left their homeland to seek refuge and perhaps their fortune in France. It was a grandson, Hugh Barton (1766 – 1854), who made his mark on the wine world though; one half of the négociant firm Barton & Guestier, he acquired Langoa-Barton in 1821 and neighbouring Léoville-Barton in 1826.

From Hugh the properties passed through at least four more sets of Barton hands before they eventually came to Ronald (1902 – 1986), and then to Anthony.

Château Léoville-Barton 2004

Despite such a long period of family ownership I haven’t encountered much in the way of very old vintages from Château Léoville-Barton. Indeed, looking back through my tasting notes, all the oldest vintages I have tasted came from private tastings and personal cellars. I encountered the 1961 vintage at a tasting in London, and I am horrified to see that tasting was almost 20 years ago now – time really does fly. Two bottles were opened, one badly corked, but the other truly on form, with a classically styled aromatic profile and palate. I also did not have much luck with the 1981 vintage when I met it – another one marred by cork taint. While I still encounter the occasional corked bottle these days (speaking generally, not specifically of Léoville-Barton), thankfully it is much rarer occurence than it once was.

I recall a vertical tasting back in 2001, which generated quite a few Léoville-Barton tasting notes and which I published here on Winedoctor, a very early addition to the site; the page eventually grew into my Léoville-Barton profile. I thought the 1985 vintage – a year of elegant and finessed wines which I always enjoyed when I encountered them – was on top form, although the richly structured 1986 was good, even if it was outclassed on that occasion by both the 1988 and the 1990. And, at a later date, by the 1989 as well.

I could go on, but rather than point at the finest vintages, it might be worth reflecting on the fact that Léoville-Barton also tends to do well in lesser years. The 1994 has long shown well from my own cellar (a case bought some years after its release for £240 including taxes – those were the days!), and even the 1999 and 2002 vintages had merit. Which brings us neatly up to the 2004 vintage, another less than enthralling year (by the way, if you want to see notes on other vintages not mentioned here they are on my Léoville-Barton tasting notes page). Like 2006, 2008, 2011 and 2012, however, the right wines in 2004 have turned out extremely well. And the Léoville-Barton is one of those wines.

In the glass the 2004 Château Léoville-Barton shows fresh despite its age, its modestly concentrated core possessing a claret-plum hue, surrounded by a dark mulberry rim. I get a fabulous blast of blackcurrant and graphite at first, and with time in the decanter this evolves into a wonderful array of balsamic, currant and juniper, laced with bay, green peppercorn and a touch of fragrant pencil shavings. It already seems quite delicious. The palate keeps up this classic left bank style, still with a youthful stance and sinewy texture, with dark layers of charcoal, currant, toast and liquorice, settling into a finish of black pepper and sweet liquorice, set in a savoury, juicy, mouth-watering substance. This is an absolutely delicious left bank claret, divinely poised, with decades of potential should you have the patience. And from such an unsung vintage! Superb. The alcohol is 13% on the label. 94/100 (3/8/26)

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