Domaine des Rochelles, 2017 Update
Although not the most famous name in Anjou, there is no doubt in my mind that the Lebreton family of Domaine des Rochelles curate one of the most important domaines in the Anjou region. Five generations have shaped it, from the originator Edouard Lebreton, through to Jean-Yves Lebreton and the latest member of the family to take hold of the reins, Jean-Hubert Lebreton (pictured). This is an excellent source both of Coteaux de l’Aubance and of Anjou-Villages Brissac, with Cabernet Sauvignon playing a significant role in two different cuvées of the latter, making this a very interesting domaine indeed.
In this most recent tasting I met up with Jean-Hubert to taste some of the latest releases. A few notes on wines from the 2016 vintage I have already slotted into my recently published Loire 2016 vintage report, so here I focus solely on the other wines, from the 2015 and 2014 vintages.
The Wines
We kicked off with the 2015 Roches des Rochelles, a cuvée which includes some fruit showing the earliest signs of botrytis infection, so you might think it would be broader and fatter than it is. As it happens I found it rather more taut and minerally than I expected, presumably because the infection is so light at the time of picking. The three red wines all showed nicely, each serving a different purpose, the 2015 Breton showcasing the floral and approachable side of Cabernet Franc, while the 2015 La Croix de Mission and 2014 Les Millerits both allowed the more serious and structural potential of Cabernet Sauvignon to shine, although the latter was much more convincing than the former in terms of its potential for the cellar. I have long been a buyer of La Croix de Mission, when I can get my hands on it (these wines are, admittedly, not the easiest to track down) but on the basis of this tasting maybe I should be looking out for Les Millerits instead?
