Domaine Ogereau, 2013 Update
Following on from my recent report on the latest releases from Château Pierre-Bise, the wines tasted with Claude Papin in February 2013, it is time now to move on to Domaine Ogereau. Proprietor Vincent Ogereau is the fourth generation of the Ogereau family to run the domaine although his son Emmanuel, who has just completed an internship at Carrick in New Zealand, is set to become the fifth. Although he is not yet permanently returned to the domaine, Emmanuel has recently assisted Vincent in a project of some significance, the planting of a new Chenin Blanc vineyard very close to the Rouannières lieu-dit that fans of Château Pierre-Bise will know well. Now this is done Emmanuel has his sights set beyond the Loire again, this time a stage in Burgundy, but he expects to return to take up a permanent and full-time role with his father sometime in 2015.
Like Claude, Vincent (pictured above) is a ‘generalist’, meaning that rather than specialising in one particular appellation, he takes advantage of all that Anjou has to offer. This means the portfolio features not only grander appellations such as Savennières and Coteaux du Layon, but also Anjou in both colours, including the occasionally stunning Cote de la Houssaye cuvée, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as rosé. This makes for something of a marathon tasting, as described below. During my time with Vincent I tasted eighteen wines, with an onslaught of Anjou Blanc and Anjou Rouge at the heart of it, surrounded by all these other styles.
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