Domaine de Montcy, 2017 Update

I continue to be fascinated by various domaines in Cheverny, principally – it has to be said – because of Cour-Cheverny. There is something really intriguing about Romorantin; perhaps it is that great acidic intensity, or the beautiful fruit profile it can demonstrate, or perhaps its ability to age. Or maybe all three. Whatever it is, it keeps me coming back for more.

There is more to the region than Cour-Cheverny of course, and I have to confess to often overlooking the white and red wines of Cheverny when it comes to my own drinking at home. The whites are blends of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay (which must sound pretty weird to anybody encountering these wines for the first time – I know that was my initial reaction), the latter coming in a variety of combinations based on Pinot Noir, Gamay, Cabernet Franc and Côt. It sounds a little like a collection of off-cuts being thrown together, although of course nothing could be further from the truth.

Laura Semeria, Domaine de Montcy

This all changed when I discovered the wines of Laura Semeria (pictured above), of Domaine de Montcy. Her Cour-Cheverny cuvées are top class, but so are her wines from Cheverny, especially in red. Having tasted with her several times over the last few years, I have seen some strong results even in some more difficult vintages, and I sense Laura has stepped up a gear yet again in 2014. That is easier said than done; although 2014 has a good reputation across the board (I am really enjoying drinking them), the summer rains brought a rampant attack of mildew to Cheverny.

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