Bordeaux 2021 at Two Years: St Estèphe
Two of the most newsworthy developments in Bordeaux in recent years have been in St Estèphe, the first of which was the change in ownership of Château Lafon-Rochet. It was a shock to learn of the sale back in 2021, given the upwards trajectory in the quality of the wine under Basile Tesseron, who was still young and seemed to have more to give. But there was little else he could do; ownership of the property was spread across several members of the Tesseron family, and one aunt wanted out. The only solution was an outright sale.
The new owner is Jacky Lorenzetti, who added Lafon-Rochet to a property portfolio which already included Pédesclaux, Lilian Ladouys and a 50% stake in Issan. Having taken the reins in 2021, subsequently installing Christophe Congé – previously at Lafite-Rothschild and Duhart-Milon – the new regime is not really responsible for the 2021 described here, so we must look to the 2022 and 2023 vintages (primeur tastings of the latter are only weeks away, while I will revisit the 2022 vintage at the end of the year) to see in which direction they take the property.
Even so, the change of hands has already had tangible impact on my tasting schedule, as Château Lafon-Rochet is the latest in an increasingly long line of properties to distance themselves from the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux (and I have it on good authority – from the horse’s mouth, as they say – that they will not be the last). Happily, I was able to taste it on this trip at Château Pédesclaux, a one-off arrangement. For the primeurs, however, it is required that I make an appointment to taste at the property; I am looking forward to the opportunity, but I have to wonder just how many more appointments I can squeeze into an already jam-packed tasting trip.
And the second newsworthy development? The sale of Château Cos Labory to Michel Reybier, already the owner of neighbouring Cos d’Estournel, news of which broke in early 2023. The 2021 tasted here was essentially blended and ready to go by this time, so again we must wait to see what effect this change in ownership has. Looking back at several decades of notes on the wines, though, I imagine it can only be positive. And I would be surprised if the wines weren’t poured along with the other Reybier wines at Château Cos d’Estournel, so hopefully no new visit to add to the schedule here. Phew!
