Bordeaux 2021 Primeurs: Pessac-Léognan, Red
In the 2021 vintage the true joy in the Pessac-Léognan appellation is to be found in the white wines, which are shimmering jewels, rich in fruit, texture, sometimes minerality but almost always good acidity, giving them drive and a sense of balance which has been missing from the whites of this region for too long.
The reds, meanwhile, and this is true across the entire Bordeaux region in this vintage, are much more of a mixed bag. That does not mean, however, they should be summarily disregarded, without a moment’s thought. Far from it. There are many good and very good wines in this vintage, but there are also any number of more average wines, as well as a few vinous pitfalls into which the unwary buyers could stumble. The level of success here is much more variable, and any purchases made require much more careful selection.
So on with my report on the red wines of Pessac-Léognan. I visited a good number of the estates in this appellation, squeezing in as many appointments as I could, including a flying visit to Château La Mission Haut-Brion after a long tasting with the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, an early morning appointment at Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion (thanks to Guillaume Pouthier for being there at 8am to greet me), and of course my usual trek through the region calling in at Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Château Haut-Bailly, Château Latour-Martillac and Domaine de Chevalier, among others.
