Bordeaux 2018 Primeurs: Pauillac
I left Château Cos d’Estournel, the last in a trio of visits in St Estèphe, clutching a gift, a small jar of Kerala black pepper. I made a mental note to include this in my annual disclosure statement, before anybody set me up in a ‘points for pepper’ scandal. Secreting my precious cargo in a corner of the glove compartment of my hire car I checked my schedule, and headed down from the great gravel croupe on which the château rests, in the direction of Pauillac.
I visited more than half a dozen châteaux in this appellation, a number which has increased slightly in recent years through the addition of Château Pédesclaux to my time table. I began with Château Lafite-Rothschild, calling in on all the first growths, both Château Pichon-Baron and Château Pichon-Lalande, as well as Château Pontet-Canet, Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste and the aforementioned Château Pédesclaux.
The Pauillac Story
“This was a vintage which began in a special way”, intoned Eric Kohler, technical director, at Château Lafite-Rothschild, which I thought was pushing the use of ‘special’ as a euphemism somewhat. But as Eric continued, his true meaning became clear. “There was an incredible contrast between the beginning and the end of the season, with very complex weather at the start, with not much rain but permanently high humidity, through to mid-July. Then it changed dramatically, so that during July, August and September we had incredible conditions, perfect for achieving great maturity”. Eric ascribes a 20% reduction in yields to the mildew that appeared at this time, declaring the work on the Lafite-Rothschild vineyards as being close to organic.
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