Bordeaux 2010 at Two Years: St Julien
A collection of bottles from St Julien, perhaps my favourite of all the left-bank communes, is always a fine sight to behold. There are no first growths perennially puffing their chests out, and only two super-seconds which insist on remaining aloof; as a consequence, when you invite the châteaux of this commune to your party you know you will always have a good turnout. Sure, Léoville-Las-Cases and Ducru-Beaucaillou will feign some feeble excuse; they have nothing to wear, they have homework to do, or they’re ironing their hair (the latter is the most original and also most disdainful excuse for not turning up to a social event I ever heard). None of this matters though, as other châteaux on a similar standing, namely Léoville-Barton and Léoville-Poyferré, have no such superior pretensions. And at this tasting, the wines showcased by the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, one of this pair made the most of the opportunity, shining through the mêlée like a beacon of high quality.
Tasting the Wines
One of these two Léoville estates has turned in a simply magnificent performance in this vintage. Perhaps that is to be expected? After all, 2010 is a vintage which seems ideally suited to the restrained and perhaps even austere wines of the left bank, with its rigid structure and classic Cabernet-dominated composition. And which château of St Julien best fits this very British, stiff-upper-lip style? For me it has to be Château Léoville-Barton, a wine I have been cellaring, pouring and drinking for too many years to remember, my prolonged enthusiasm only tempered in recent years by the gradual deterioration of Anthony Barton’s once robust resolve against putting up prices (always an attractive feature for the consumer!). This was once one of Bordeaux’s real bargains, not necessarily inexpensive, but well priced compared to other wines of similar rank and quality, and packing an awful lot for the money. These days it still delivers, as my note below hopefully illustrates, but the price is now much more in keeping with other wines of a similar standing. Oh well, that’s life when it comes to Bordeaux these days.
