Bordeaux 2010 at Two Years: Pessac-Léognan, Red Wines
An analysis of the red wines of Pessac-Léognan in this vintage is certainly bound to be more complex than it is for the white wines. There, the harvest was made under near-ideal conditions, the fruit ripe and also rich in welcome acidity. When it comes to the red wines, however, the road towards full and complete ripeness was rather more rocky. Referring back to my introduction, I have already given some account of the final few weeks of the growing season, during which the Bordelais waited for the fruit to fully ripen. There were two major problems that resulted, both of which are relevant to this particular region of Bordeaux. First, as the fruit was left on the vine, the berries dehydrated; that meant more concentrated juice, rich in acidity as well as everything else, and thickened skins, rich in tannin. Secondly, although we are on the left bank here, Pessac-Léognan has a more evident use for Merlot than the classic gravel-based communes of the Haut-Médoc. Merlot suffered more in the search for physiological ripeness (doesn’t it always?) and using this variety certainly risked bringing a more brawny, alcohol-infused character to the wines.
This much was evident when tasting during the primeurs, when Château Haut-Brion clocked in an alcohol level of 14.6%, despite increasing the use of Cabernet Sauvignon to 57% to edge out the overly-rich Merlot (which accounted for just 23%). Here, on the soils of a first growth estate, in a slightly warmer microclimate brought by the proximity of the city of Bordeaux, it is perhaps no surprise that there should be particular trouble with this variety. Château La Mission Haut-Brion was not to be outdone, with just 37% Merlot, less than usual, more Cabernet Sauvignon at 62%, and an alcohol level of 15.1%. Sadly, neither wine is reassessed here, nevertheless these data remain very relevant; this is not a vintage to look for fragrant delicacy. It is a vintage of bright acid-bound fruit, but there is also a potential for tannin domination and high alcohol levels.
