Château Pierre-Bise, 2019 Update
With the sad demise of at least one of my favoured domaines in Anjou during the past year (sad, even if something quite brilliant seems to have sprung forth from the remains), it is pleasing to me and my palate to see another old favourite pass seamlessly from one generation to the next. Here at Château Pierre-Bise a tasting of the latest releases will now see you sitting down with René Papin (pictured), the third generation of the family (along with his brother Christophe) to tend the Papin vineyards. Indeed, I think it is two or perhaps even three years since I last set eyes on Claude Papin. I imagine Claude is kept as busy as ever during harvest, when it is all hands on deck, but otherwise I hope he is enjoying a happy retirement.
For this most recent assessment of the Château Pierre-Bise portfolio, then, I sat down with René and we began with the most recent releases of the dry whites. Our focus was largely on the 2017 and 2016 vintages, although a few cuvées from preceding vintages, 2015 and even 2014, did creep into the mix. I have also augmented my report with a couple of tasting notes on wines tasted at home, again from the 2015 and 2014 vintages.
The Wines
Starting in Anjou, the 2015 Rouannières showed a bold style, filled with soft golden fruits and more than a touch of grip, and my preference was for the 2017 Haut de la Garde instead, which seems more true to the style I would expect from Château Pierre-Bise these days, with more tension, and a little leaning towards a reductive style. Vinified partly in foudre, partly in barrel and partly in sandstone jarres, a fairly standard arrangement across the portfolio now, I can’t help think that the introduction of the sandstone jarres has helped to push the house style in this direction. If so I hope René remains committed to using them (and maybe he could even buy a few more?).
