Domaine Ogereau, 2019 Update
I sense a renewed energy in Anjou these days; new life is being injected into long-forgotten domaines, and once-abandoned vineyards are being restored, as we have seen, for example, at the recently profiled Château de Bonnezeaux. New arrivals in the region are taking up the reins, such as Ivan Massonnat and his hand-picked team at Domaine Belargus. And in some cases talented young vignerons are wresting small parcels of vines from their parents, no longer content to see mère et père send freshly picked fruit from brilliant schist- and phthanite-rich soils straight to the presses of the local co-operative, as the talented Pierre Ménard has been doing over the past few years.
And in some cases the vines are being handed over by a more senior generation. In the case of Domaine Ogereau this is most certainly the case; while Vincent and Emmanuel Ogereau work together, today it is Emmanuel leading the way. Under his direction quality has not faltered, and if anything it is on the up. The Savennières is more precise. A series of top vintages have allowed the reds, especially the privileged Anjou-Villages cuvée from the Côtes de la Houssay vineyard, to shine. And then there are those sweet wines, including the new Quarts de Chaume cuvée from vines in La Martinière……Please log in to continue reading: