Tasting at La Table, 2012: Vincent Ogereau

Yves Guégniard, Jim Budd, Tom King and myself were taking a look at some of Bergerie’s oldest vines, trying to shake off their blanket of snow, when Vincent Ogereau (pictured below) drew up in his little blue combi-van. Perhaps sensing there was just as much gossiping going on here, about the latest vintages, wine and the world in general, it was not long before Vincent had left the secure warmth of his vehicle to join us among the vines.

Vincent is a man who is as charming as his wines. A fourth generation vigneron, he took charge of the family domaine in 1989, having worked alongside his father there since 1983. Prior to that he had been studying, although he never restricted himself to just viticulture and winemaking; it is no secret that Vincent (and the same goes for his son, Emmanuel) is a talented musician. Sadly Vincent had not brought his tuba with him today, so we would have to make do with his wines instead. That, it has to be said, is never a hardship.

Stars of the Layon at RSJ, 2010

As is the case with Yves Guégniard, Vincent has an impressive portfolio of vineyards and therefore wines, and thus his is another domaine which displays, to its full extent, the diverse and multifaceted nature of the Anjou vineyard. We have here wines that are pink, white or red, dry and sweet, and – although he did not show any on the day – there are bubbles to be found here too. It all naturally has the potential to confuse. With so many wines, where should we direct our attention first? It is a question we might ask ourselves when approaching any Anjou domaine, not just those of Yves or Vincent.

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