A Visit to Domaine de Juchepie, 2010: Biodynamics
The vineyards at Juchepie are cared for using biodynamic techniques, which means a chemical-free approach in the vineyard of course, the treatments applied to the vines generally being herbal teas; nettles, horsetail and thousand leaf (otherwise known as yarrow) are particularly favoured choices used when non-organic/biodynamic estates would probably reach for sulphur-based treatments instead. Eddy states that the herb teas have a dramatic effect in the vineyard; whereas he believes the benefits of the majority of biodynamic practices take time to reveal themselves, the vigour of the vines is noticeably increased within the first year of applying these treatments. Just as Philippe Germain reported to me after his first trials of biodynamics when I visited earlier in the year, Eddy reports that the vines immediately displayed a healthier colour, with richer foliage and thicker stems and shoots.
For Eddy (pictured right), organic or indeed biodynamic viticulture is more than the replacement of conventional chemical products with ‘natural’ substitutes, which is how he feels some view organic farming. Rather it entails a completely novel approach in the vineyard. He holds strong beliefs, but thankfully is not like some of the natural wine zealots who focus more on the techniques than the appeal of the final product. He is quite adamant that for him, biodynamics is not about helping nature, a refreshing admission which has not gone down well with some of his biodynamic peers, but is more about getting the very best quality of wine possible from his terroir, whilst working in symbiosis with his soils. And when there is a need for permitted treatments, Eddy is open to using them. When questioned on the use of copper Eddy replied “Of course we use it“, although it is employed – usually at least – in very restricted quantities. One exception was 2007 when the full allowance – organic regulations permit use of up to 6 kg/ha/year – was utilised. This is not the norm though; much less is typical at Juchepie, such as the 1.2 kg/ha used in 2009. And so far in 2010 the quantity used has been 0.9 kg/ha with the expectation in mid-July being that there would be no more needed; despite some recent storms in the area Juchepie (and Anjou as a whole) had not seen much rain, and 2010 was turning out to be a growing season untroubled by mildew or oidium.
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