Domaine des Huards, 2020 Update

Michel Gendrier, of Domaine des Huards, is one of the leading vignerons in the Cheverny and Cour-Cheverny appellations, in the Sologne. These are regions which are too easily overlooked, too often overshadowed by more famous Touraine neighbours such as Vouvray, Montlouis, Chinon and Bourgueil. This is a great shame because there are some real vinous gems here, made from uncharacteristic blends and uncommon varieties, just waiting to be discovered.

One such variety is Romorantin, in the Cour-Cheverny appellation. This is surely the region’s secret weapon, producing deliciously acid-bright and mouth-wateringly dry, demi-sec and moelleux wines very much in the Vouvray-Montlouis-Jasnières spirit but developing a distinctive flavour profile as they age. Cheverny, meanwhile, gives us idiosyncratic blends of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay (and sometimes other varieties), wines of vivacity and joy, provided you know which domaines to turn to. And the reds of Cheverny are at least interesting, although being blends of Pinot Noir and Gamay they perhaps have more in common with the wines of the Coteaux du Giennois than they do with Cabernet Franc from Chinon or Bourgueil.

Domaine des Huards

I have tried to taste with Michel Gendrier (pictured above) on a regular basis, at least once per year, although I don’t always succeed. Last year I had to forego that as my time was taken up with a visit to taste at Domaine Belargus in Anjou instead, hopefully an acceptable excuse. This year I was happy to be able to catch up with Michel once more.

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