Domaine FL, 2019 Update
It seems fitting in a year in which Jo Pithon has handed over the vineyards of Pithon-Paillé to Ivan Massonnat, creating (when combined with some other newly acquired parcels) Domaine Belargus, I should also have the opportunity to revisit another domaine the origins of which also lie with Jo and his vineyards. Of course I am referring to Domaine FL, which was created when the relationship between Jo and his backer Philippe Fournier went sour in 2008. Jo left with just a few parcels of vines to his name, the most notable of which was the Coteau des Treilles, which is now part of Ivan’s portfolio. Most of the vines, however, not to mention the labels, and even legal ownership of the name ‘Jo Pithon’ were taken by Philippe. Suffice to say it was not an entirely amiable break-up.
More than a decade on and Domaine FL has emerged from these difficult beginnings to become a significant domaine in Anjou. The domaine was at first managed by Hugues d’Aubercies, a nephew of Pierre Soulez, before control then passed to Philippe Fournier’s son Julien Fournier, and Charles-Eric Pasquiers was installed in the cellars. They converted the domaine to biodynamic viticulture in 2015, and built new facilities on the hills above Rochefort-sur-Loire. Today, after Charles-Eric’s departure, Julien has sole control over the estate and its wines. And the style that has evolved here is worthy of our interest, being focused, precise, with absolutely no malolactic influence and as a result this domaine turns out an array of wonderfully vibrant wines.
The Wines
The focus at Domaine FL is on dry Chenin Blanc, in the Anjou and Savennières appellations. In the former the 2017 Anjou Blanc Les Bergères is pretty enough, as was the entry-level 2017 Savennières, an assemblage of a number of parcels across the appellation. Much more interesting, however, were three single-vineyard cuvées from within the latter appellation. The 2017 Savennières La Croix Picot, a vineyard strongly associated with Jo Pithon back in the day, showed a bright and lemony character, in an undeniably attractive style, although I preferred the 2017 Savennières La Fremine, which had a touch more perfumed complexity and smoky depth to it. And while I liked the 2015 Savennières Chamboureau, the extra years in bottle coming through as a handsome almond-and-truffle evolution, I don’t feel it really offered anything more than the wine from La Fremine.
