Philippe Delesvaux, 2010 Update
Philippe (pictured) and Catherine Delesvaux seemed just as charming as ever at this year’s Renaissance tasting in Angers, and perhaps this bright demeanour reflects their attractive portfolio of wines. This year they were showing only a quartet of wines from 2008, complemented by the Sélection des Grains Nobles from 2006.
As usual the openers were the two Anjou Blanc cuvées, the main distinguishing feature between the two being that the Feuille d’Or is made from grafted vines whereas the Authentique comes from vines planted franc de pied. Which I prefer seems to vary from vintage to vintage, and comparing the 2008 duo I found the Authentique somewhat more complex and convincing, at least at this early stage. Rather more consistent is my opinion of when these wines will show best, as I find they sing after a few years in bottle, totally eclipsing the more crisp and papery feel they reveal when tasted so young. This was nicely illustrated by my tasting of the 2006 Feuille d’Or last year.
The Anjou Rouge was serviceable, and the sole sweet wine from 2008, the Coteaux du Layon Saint-Aubin, made from a mix of botrytised and passerillé fruit picked in three tries also showed a rather subtle style. A more overt pleasure came with the final wine, the 2006 Sélection des Grains Nobles, surely the style on which the Delesvaux reputation rests? A fine character on the nose was followed by a supple but rich palate, with the power that is brought by noble rot. (18/3/10)
