Clau de Nell, 2016 Update
There are many domaines in the Loire Valley at which I enjoy tasting, most of which I have known – either vicariously, through their wines, or by visiting and getting to know the relevant vignerons – for many years, sometimes a decade or more. None, whoever, seemed to break into my wine consciousness in the manner in which Clau de Nell did a couple of years ago. A biodynamic domaine rescued from financial collapse by the late Anne-Claude Leflaive, the vineyards were taken in hand by Sylvain Potin (pictured).
What has resulted from their intervention are wines made with traditional Loire Valley varieties, but with a rather slick and polished style. They are not short of appeal.
The Wines
This most recent tasting with Sylvain took in the 2014 and 2013 vintages. Looking at 2014 first, undoubtedly the more interesting of the two, the Cuvée Violette showed a charming combination of dark fruit with a bright and leafy freshness. It was superior to the entry-level Anjou Rouge, although I found this wine’s perfumed fruit very appealing with a pretty, savoury character. The Grolleau cuvée, meanwhile, shows fine perfumed fruit and fruit of impressive concentration and definition on the palate.
