Bordeaux 2016 at Two Years: St Julien
The 2016 vintage in St Julien is no less remarkable then it is in the neighbouring left-bank appellations of St Estèphe, Pauillac and Margaux. Here the vintage is marked by some stellar performances from the appellation’s leading second growth estates, but we also have here a number of excellent wines from estates lower down the 1855 classification, and from a small handful of domaines outside this system. In other words, there should be something here to suit every pocket. Well, here’s hoping, anyway.
The identities of the top two wines here offer no surprises, being from two of the commune’s leading châteaux, so instead let us first take a look at those properties which have seriously overperformed. Leading the pack in this regard is surely Château Saint-Pierre, a superb wine brimming with toasted black fruits fragranced with pomegranate and vanilla, and infused with a fabulous energy. This estate has been on something of a roll in recent years, and the 2016 continues this very successful trend. Also pulling out all the stops are the 2016s from Château Branaire-Ducru, which offers us a seamless infusion of smoky-grilled black cherry fruits, and from Château Beychevelle, this wine presenting an elegant and attractive violet and plum-cream substance. Together, these châteaux have turned out a trio of excellent wines.
As for the top châteaux, the wines of Château Ducru-Beaucaillou and Château Léoville-Las-Cases are nothing less than astonishing. The former is a heady affair scented with vanilla, currants, coffee bean and smoke, loaded with structure and clearly set to evolve over many decades. The same could also be said of the latter wine, which is no less substantial albeit in a slightly more perfumed style, perhaps related to the Cabernet Franc included in the blend here.
