Bordeaux 2016 Primeurs: AC Bordeaux
While this might on paper be the lowliest of all appellations in the Bordeaux region, when it comes to the quality of wines nothing could be further from the truth. This appellation is used in a somewhat similar manner to the way vignerons in other parts of France use the Vin de France category. Of course, there are still regulations that must be adhered to, regarding vine planting density, varieties, harvest, yields and more, so unlike Vin de France it isn’t ‘anything goes’. But it still allows a freer hand for those wanting to make something not quite the norm, in particular dry white wines in regions more commonly associated with red. There are also plenty of good value entry-level red cuvées, some from famous names. And speaking of Vin de France, I conclude with a couple of tasting notes on wines which make use of this category.
Although a rather rag-tag collection of notes, this is to my mind always one of the most interesting reports to write. Whether in white or red, Bordeaux tends to follow a small number of stylistic themes, and it is good to see some of the locals trying to break the mould. It is also pleasing, of course, to uncover good-value alternatives to the famous names, sometimes made by very accomplished winemakers, in a region famed for ever higher prices. While some of the wines below are very expensive despite their ‘lowly’ appellation (something else they have in common with some Vin de France cuvées from elsewhere in France) some also offer real value.
The AC Bordeaux Story
Of course, there isn’t one coherent story to present for this disparate group of wines from all corners of Bordeaux. But I will mention two very interesting wines. The first comes from Château Cos d’Estournel, and it is the estate’s white wine (actually made from vines further north, in the Médoc appellation) which I tasted at the château with Aymeric de Gironde and Dominique Arangoïts, all under the watchful eye of proprietor Michel Reybier (pictured).
