Bordeaux 2013 Primeurs: Pontet-Canet
It would be impossible to write this report without casting the spotlight onto the wine of Château Pontet-Canet, for several reasons. First, in recent vintages this estate has punched well above its weight, a complete contrast to its lacklustre performance three decades ago. Secondly, despite being one of the largest estates of the Médoc, the vineyard is 100% biodynamic, which makes it unique in the left-bank red wine communes (although let us not forget that in Barsac Château Climens is also biodynamic, and closer to home Château Palmer, Château Durfort-Vivens and Château Latour are also, last time I heard, heading that way). Thirdly, there is a unique approach to winemaking here, with Jean-Michel Comme fermenting and aging 35% of the harvest in cement amphora-like vessels of his own design, adding another layer of ‘uniqueness’. Fourthly, and I know this is old news by now, the 2013 vintage will be forever remembered the one in which Alfred Tesseron released the wine of Château Pontet-Canet to the négociants (and sold out to them the same week) before the tastings had even begun.
The growing season here was complicated, of course, by the biodynamic philosophy; I recall Alfred Tesseron (pictured) telling me, quite a few years ago now, how he came to regret his decision in the 2007 vintage to use chemicals when the vineyards were beset by mildew in the first half of the season. It took three years of organic-biodynamic viticulture for the vineyard to be recertified as biodynamic, and he vowed that he would never lose his resolve again. Although the problem in 2013 was very different – the solution to rampant rot at harvest time is to pick, not spray – that he has since held his nerve in several difficult vintages shows the measure of the man.
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