Bordeaux 2013 Primeurs: Haut-Médoc
Despite my experience with the wines of Moulis and Listrac in 2013, where my disappointment was fairly universal, this vintage is still not one where we should dismiss out of hand the less prestigious left bank appellations. This is as I have already described a vintage where success (or should I say, relative success) does not seem to depend on classification, appellation or the grandeur of one’s terroir. In some appellations, cru classé châteaux have turned out wines that are uninspiring, while their little-name neighbours have hit the bull’s eye. Other factors seem to be important, perhaps the speed of your harvest, or your winemaking savoir-faire. Thus, even in appellations such as the Haut-Médoc, there is always the chance of uncovering a hidden gem. Well…maybe.
As with my report on 2012 Haut-Médoc, in the 2013 vintage I have divided the wines of this appellation into four categories, representing the four major Haut-Médoc regions. I feel this is worthwhile as this is a sprawling and multi-faceted appellation, and I believe these write-ups are as much about understanding the region and the vintage as much as publishing notes and scores.
First, and appropriately so in view of the quality to be found here I look to the vineyards to the north of St Estèphe, around Saint-Seurin-de-Cadourne. Here I called in on the Gautreau family and their team at Château Sociando-Mallet, led by Vincent Faure, to taste the 2013s from barrel. This was the final blend (blending here is done after the vinifications, and before the wines go into barrel) and there is no blending in of another vintage here. Concentrating on the grand vin, this is a blend of 50% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and the quality for the vintage really is quite remarkable. The nose is rich in damsons and other dark fruits, with both depth and definition. And the palate feels polished, correct and confident. This is a wine of real interest, and it is immensely superior to anything else thrown up by this appellation in 2013.
