Bordeaux 2006 at Two Years: Pessac-Léognan
If there was one set of wines I was looking forward to tasting at the annual Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux tasting of the 2006 vintage it was the white wines from Graves, or to be more specific the wines of the Graves enclave delimited in 1987, Pessac-Léognan.
As mentioned already, cooler weather through August before a dry and warm harvest in September did the fruit of the Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc vines no harm at all. The lower temperatures no doubt contributed to the preservation of the acidity which is tangible in the finished wines, and which in my opinion makes them so superior to the wines of the 2005 vintage.
Having already encountered some of the top wines once or twice before I have already seen consistent quality, albeit with one or two disappointments. At this tasting there were no such issues; those wines that have shone in previous tastings were just as good, particularly, Domaine de Chevalier and Pape-Clément, but there were also a number of wines which seemed to have developed better definition, a better frame for the fruit and texture, better tension, and I would place Carbonnieux and Latour-Martillac in this group. Otherwise, the majority of the wines continued the aforementioned consistency. Generalising, the wines show vibrant aromatics and flavour, framed by a taut acidity which gives the wine great definition and vivacity in the mouth.
The notes and scores presented below are as written at the UGC tasting, and as usual I present the white wines prior to the red. (28/5/08)
