Bordeaux 2006 Primeurs: Tasting in 2007
The 2006 vintage has not been an easy one for the Bordelais, and the wines have certainly not made themselves in the way they were said to do in 2005. Indeed, some have described it is the Vintage of the Vigneron, no doubt wishing to convey some message about the difficulties of the harvest and the vinification that followed. My first taste of the vintage courtesy of Bibendum in London in April 2007 was a chance to assess the wines for myself.
Certainly this is no 2005. Whereas that vintage was a delight to taste even though the wines were so young, the wines of 2006 were harder work, in most cases at least. One area in which there was no difficulty at all, however, was dry white Bordeaux. Generalising, if I may, this is the only area in which 2006 excels, the only genre where exciting, compelling wines can be found (allowing for the fact that I have not tasted first growths or certain exalted wines of the right bank).
The Pape-Clément and Domaine de Chevalier are both sublime, others are excellent, and in a number of cases (although not all) I find the 2006 preferable to the 2005 or 2004, where I have the relevant tasting experience to make the comparison. The sweet whites, however, are not so thrilling. I have only tasted a mere handful, so dare not generalise, but those I have sampled lack impact, concentration, richness and most of all botrytis. They do have a bright character to their flavour, but this is insufficient and I would suggest lovers of Sauternes and Barsac look to older vintages – there have been many excellent ones in recent years – if they desire to restock their cellar.
