Bordeaux 2006 at Two Years
Now seemingly a fairly regular fixture in my annual tasting program, the Union des Grands Cru de Bordeaux roadshow – which shows the most recently bottled vintage in a series of tastings held across Europe, North America and Asia – recently hit London. For those familiar with the event, other than a short talk from newly inaugurated UGC president Sylvie Cazes-Régimbeau on the vintage and new plans for the UGC’s Weekend des Grands Amateurs, it really was the usual affair. And that means over one hundred wines to assess (far too many to taste in the time allotted if they are going to be given due consideration), a similar number of proprietors and winemakers there to be interrogated, and lots of old faces ready to catch up on the latest news and gossip. But mainly, naturally, the name of the game is to take another look at the wines.
I have already provided some background details in my review of the vintage, but to recap 2006 was a potential rival to 2005 through to August, but this month was then uncharacteristically cool and damp, bringing rot and interfering with the veraison. The white varieties coped well with this cooler weather, and indeed may have even benefited especially where the dry whites are concerned, and they were harvested during a thankfully warmer September. But as for the reds, the conditions were not so good. Heavy rainfall meant that many Merlots were rushed in before phenolic ripeness had been achieved, although those that held out still had the raw materials for potentially very good wines. The Cabernets, which ripen later than Merlot, were picked in similarly dreary conditions. As for Sauternes & Barsac, there were on the whole three or four tries which brought in good but not breathtaking fruit.
