Domaine des Baumard, 2015 Update: Savennières
Although we can perhaps regard Quarts de Chaume as the jewel in the Baumard crown, there is another equally significant appellation here, namely Savennières. Jean Baumard, Florent’s father, was the first from the south of the Loire to acquire a foothold in the Savennières appellation. This he did with the purchase of vines in 1968, only thirteen years after he took up work at the domaine. The purchase included vines in both Clos du Papillon and Clos de Saint Yves. It is the first of the two, named for the butterfly (or papillon) like shape of the vineyard when viewed from afar, that is today the most iconic.
Clos de Saint Yves
Baumard owns 7.5 hectares contained entirely within the Clos de Saint Yves, which lies just to the east of the Clos du Papillon. Indeed, at the foot of the Clos de Saint Yves the vineyard hooks round and runs down to the road at the edge of the Clos du Papillon, and so for about a hundred metres the two vineyards are contiguous, separated only by the narrow country lane that lies between them.
The soils here are schist, well suited to Chenin Blanc which is planted on 6.5 hectares, the remaining hectare having been planted with Verdelho up until 2006. The story goes that Jean Baumard acquired these vines by accident, having purchased the clos in the dead of winter, the absence of leaves and other distinguishing features meaning the several rows of Verdelho went unnoticed. It was only as the following year progressed, and the vines displayed their many differences, did he realise he had a hectare of Verdelho on his hands. As with the Chardonnay above, it seems widely acknowledged that the fruit of these wines once found its way into the wine, although this has not been the case now for many years. They were for a while used as the basis for two 100% Verdelho cuvées, but the vines have since been pulled up.
Of note, the wine from this clos is often marketed as Clos de Saint Yves (particularly in foreign markets or for the on-trade) but in other markets it will often be found under the straight Domaine des Baumard label. In the tasting below I tackle the three latest vintages, from 2013 to 2011.
Clos du Papillon
The Baumard family own another 7 hectares of the Clos du Papillon which itself amounts to about 14.5 hectares, the remaining 7.5 hectares shared out between three other owners. It is located just to the north and east of the village of Savennières, between the Moulin de Gué on the slope above, and the Château de Varennes below, next to the railway line.
