Patrick Baudouin, 2019 Update
In the melting pot that is Anjou you can find every level of quality, and just about every style. With such a busy region, with so many different facets, it is not surprising that some vignerons and domaines can be overlooked. While over the last decade (longer in the case of some) I have followed with avid interest my favourite producers such as Richard Leroy, the sadly defunct Pithon-Paillé (although the promise held by the newly created Domaine Belargus does much to compensate me for this loss), Claude Papin (and now his sons René and Christophe), Vincent Ogereau (and now his son Emmanuel Ogereau), not to mention a slew of Savennières specialists, there are also a few domaines on which I have checked in on with less frequency. Patrick Baudouin (pictured) is perhaps one example, but this should not be taken as an indication that his wines are of a lesser quality. Having met up with Patrick earlier this year, and last year too, I have been reminded of the exceptional character of his wines. Perhaps I should be visiting and tasting here more often?
Patrick Baudouin’s forte is undoubtedly dry Chenin Blanc; he has a very discrete production of moelleux wines, led by his Zersilles cuvée from Quarts de Chaume, as well as some rather elegant and surprisingly ethereal (for Anjou) reds, but it is the portfolio of dry wines which will have you coming back here for more, again and again.
The Wines
Starting with the white wines, I kicked off with La Fresnaye in the 2017 vintage. As Anjou fans will know the vines at Château La Fresnaye were previously tended by the team at Pithon-Paillé (indeed Jo and Wendy Paillé once lived in the draughty and reputedly haunted château) but this agreement came to an end when Jo Pithon and family decided to sell his domaine. Patrick is now responsible for looking after the vineyard, and the results are strong. On the same level, the 2017 Effusion, a blend from various parcels named for the ‘effuse’ nature of its minerality, was also impressive. This is clearly a fine vintage for whites in this region, in Anjou at least. It was of course the year Savennières was devastated by a spring frost, so Patrick will not be able to release his usual cuvée from the Bellevue vineyard in this year.
