Patrick Baudouin, 2013 Update
Patrick Baudouin (pictured) has long had a reputation for his sweet wines; take a look around the depressingly sparse body of reference materials available on the wines of the Loire, from any of the authors who occasionally dally with this region, and you will find their focus is usually on the Coteaux du Layon cuvées. Some, particularly (but not solely) the Cuvée Maria Juby, seem to have the ability to send shivers down the spines of many of those who encounter them.
It is important to note, however, that Patrick has not stood still over the past few years; this is no longer a tiny, one-man show turning out a narrow range of sweet wines from the Coteaux du Layon. His domaine has expanded to an admirable 13 hectares, all of which are managed organically, and he has a team of workers sufficiently large for them to take on just 2 hectares each. So while many in the Loire bang the natural, organic or biodynamic drum (very loudly in some cases), Patrick is one of many – others doing the same include Claude Papin and Vincent Ogereau – quietly get on with working in much the same way, with minimal interventions in vineyard and cellar, because here the focus is the quality of the final product, rather than the technique.
As Patrick’s domaine has grown in size, he has managed to pick up some plots in more exalted appellations. His Coteaux du Layon cuvées are now complemented by a Quarts de Chaume, Patrick having acquired a 1-hectare plot of vines in this appellation in 2008. Then, to complement his production of dry wines in the Anjou appellation, in 2009 he added 1 hectare of vines in Savennières to his portfolio. Alongside this acquisition he also established a small négociant business, producing Savennières from organically cultivated grapes which he buys in from selected growers.
