Bordeaux Wine Guide: Semillon
Semillon was once the most widely planted variety in Bordeaux, before the red wines came to dominate. Today its most significant role is as the major player in Sauternes and Barsac; when ripe, its thin skin leaves it susceptible to attack by botrytis rot, the key event in the production of sweet wines in this region. Under the right weather conditions (humid, so river mists and autumn showers are beneficial) the botrytis mould attacks, puncturing the thin skin, making the grape liable to water loss. If there is subsequent dehydration (warm, dry preferably breezy weather helps here) the matter within the grapes becomes increasingly concentrated, turning from gently sweet and juicy pulp to an incredibly luscious, acid-rich and sugar-rich syrup.
The Wines
This is the principle behind all examples of sweet wine from Bordeaux, not just in the exalted communes of Sauternes and Barsac but also less famous appellations such as Cérons, Cadillac, Loupiac and the Premières Côtes de Bordeaux. Look beyond Bordeaux to nearby Bergerac and you will also see Semillon dominates in the sweet wine appellations of Saussignac and Monbazillac. Occasionally, as I have indicated in my introduction above, it may appear alone, such as at Château Climens, but the norm is for the variety to be blended, usually with Sauvignon Blanc, perhaps also Muscadelle.
Semillon is not just for sweet wine, however, it can also be responsible for some stunning dry whites, as fans of the wines of the Hunter Valley in Australia will know only too well. Even though the Australian wines prove that this variety can perform brilliantly in isolation, the norm in Bordeaux is for the variety to be blended. In isolation it can develop a really appealing waxy substance, but it tends to lack a little vigour, and this is brought to the blend by Sauvignon Blanc. Indeed, most dry white blends are predominantly Sauvignon Blanc, with Semillon providing some depth. One or two, such as the white wine of Château La Mission Haut-Brion (pictured) regularly features more Semillon than Sauvignon Blanc. By contrast the white from Château Haut-Brion usually tends towards more Sauvignon Blanc, although only slightly so.
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