Domaine Ogereau: Tasting & Drinking
While Vincent Ogereau might not attract the sorts of plaudits that are heaped upon Anjou vignerons with higher profiles, such as Claude Papin or Florent Baumard, it is essential that anyone with even just a passing interest in the wines of the Loire should make an effort to become acquainted with these wines. These are not just wines for Loire geeks, as here we have an impressive portfolio featuring quality in all styles, regardless of colour or residual sugar.
The white wines from the Anjou and Savennières appellations have a fine and polished elegance, and the red wines can be very impressive (and good value too), especially with an appropriate amount of bottle age, as a taste of the aforementioned 1997 Cuvée Prestige at the RSJ told me in late 2010. The Anjou-Villages Côte de la Houssaye, which replaced the Cuvée Prestige, is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and it simply demands time in the cellar. Patience will be rewarded though, especially in ripe and favourable vintages when this wine will age in a fashion to match many a grand cru classé château.
And as for the sweet wines, it is here that I am most likely to have to catch my breath. The wines of the Coteaux du Layon show all the same purity and definition as the dry white wines, but with all the botrytis-influenced and/or passerillé character to match. If there were any evidence required as to the quality of the Bonnes Blanches vineyard, it is chez Ogereau that this is waiting to be found. And now, from the 2015 vintage onwards, we have the wine from Quarts de Chaume to enjoy as well. The two wines are regarded by Vincent and Emmanuel as being equals at the top of the Ogereau portfolio.
This is a top all-round domaine, with numerous high points within the portfolio, and with a new generation placing his hand alongside Vincent’s on the tiller, I expect we will see further developments here in the near future. (13/9/07, updated 23/3/11, 17/5/12, 31/5/15, 30/7/17, 17/12/23, 11/1/25)
