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Domaine Sérol, 2022 Update

Domaine Sérol, 2022 Update

Undoubtedly in the running for the flagship estate in the Côte Roannaise appellation, Domaine Sérol has a long history of viticulture, one stretching back to at least the 18th century. The incumbent Stéphane Sérol is the latest in a long line of vignerons (well, they were mostly vignerons – one black sheep took up plastering instead) who have tended vines on the foothills of the Massif Central. The presence of vines in the region of course goes back much further, to at least the Middle Ages, and prior to phylloxera this was one of the largest vineyards in all France, the Sérol ancestors small cogs in a very large machine. But the louse wiped all trace of it from the land.

Well, nearly all trace of it. Thankfully pockets, such as here at Domaine Sérol, survive.

Stéphane Sérol took over from his father Robert in 1998. Aided by his wife Carine, his pursuit of quality and more sustainable working has been relentless. He first signed up to the Terra Vitis charter, admittedly a fairly low hurdle to clear (easy for me to say, I know, as I am not the one doing the work), in 2002. More significant was a conversion to organic viticulture, certified in 2011. Then came biodynamics, certified by Biodyvin, in 2020. This work, together with a benevolent climate, has seen quality skyrocket. The first wines I ever tasted here were very good, but felt like curiosities. Today they are delicious and distinctive examples of Gamay which I often buy for my own cellar.

Domaine Sérol

This short report on the wines of Domaine Sérol takes in two tasting encounters. The first was in Paris late in November 2021, while the second was in Angers, in March 2022 (I tasted the latter wines on my anniversaire, an excellent way to spend my 21st birthday). Where the same wine cropped up, I have combined the tasting notes. Perhaps surprisingly, given that only a few months passed between the two encounters, this only applied to three of the wines tasted.

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