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Lifting the Lid on Domaines CGR, 2022

Lifting the Lid on Domaines CGR, 2022

During my earliest trips to Bordeaux I would often stay up on Médoc peninsula, near the town of Lesparre-Médoc. In fact, more than fifteen years on, I still often spend one or two nights up there during a tasting trip. When your first appointment of the day is well north, say at Château Calon-Ségur, the twenty-minute drive down from Lesparre-Médoc is a much less daunting prospect than the hour and a half it takes to get there from a Bordeaux city hotel. Especially when the sun has yet to rise, and the roads are both dark and unfamiliar.

As a consequence I got to know the road between Lesparre-Médoc and St Estèphe rather well. The drive would take me past Château Preuillac, for so long in the hands of Jean-Christophe Mau of Château Brown. And further down the road there is Château Potensac, the Médoc outpost of Jean-Hubert Delon, best-known as proprietor of Château Léoville-Las-Cases. Situated between the two, albeit set well back from the road, is Château La Cardonne, arguably the jewel in the Domaines CGR crown. It was a property I did not know so well back then, although today that is certainly no longer the case.

Château La Cardonne, Château Ramafort, Château Grivière

Late last year I called in at Château La Cardonne and the estate’s erstwhile factotum, Andrew McInnes (appearing from the gloom, above), put on a blind tasting of various Domaines CGR wines. His stated intention was for me to choose a bottle to drink with dinner (which he cooked – and I don’t think I have ever had a better meal in Bordeaux, or at least not one with so many course), but I am not sure he was entirely telling the truth. In any case, I was in full Bordeaux nerd mode, and I dutifully made some notes on each wine, which I present here. First, though, a little detail on the Domaines CGR properties.

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