Clos de l’Écotard, 2024 Update
One of the most intriguing new domaines to have emerged in the Saumur arena in recent years, Clos de l’Écotard has grown from a small family-owned parcel of vines handed down to its creator, Michel Chevré, in 2007.
Michel’s enthusiasm for viticulture and wine can be traced back to his youth, when he oversaw his first fermentation at the side of his father, Maurice Chevré. While the Clos de l’Écotard seed had been planted, it would nevertheless be many more years before it would germinate. During those intervening years Michel spent most of his working hours alongside Thierry Germain of Domaine des Roches Neuves. The first time I saw his name on a label was, if memory serves correctly, alongside Thierry’s on that of the Bulles de Roche cuvée, a non-vintage sparkling wine they co-produced.
The seed of Clos de l’Écotard finally took root in 2017, when Michel was joined by his youngest son Thibaud, who had an interest in following in his father’s footsteps. This prompted an expansion of the domaine, and as a consequence that tiny parcel of hand-me-down vines has now grown to an impressive 15 hectares. The focus remains Chenin Blanc of course, but there is now a varied range of alternative cuvées on offer, making use of Cabernet Franc, Grolleau Noir, Gamay and more.
The year 2024 is a significant one for Clos de l’Écotard because now, after seven years working together, Michel is taking a back seat, and Thibaud Chevré now runs this domaine alone (although Michel has certainly not retired – I last shook his hand only a week ago at Domaine des Aubuisières in Vouvray, where he currently consults). With this in mind I met up with Thibaud earlier this year, to taste through his current offerings.
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