Claude Lafond, 2020 Update
The story of the Reuilly appellation, and the role played by Claude Lafond in its revival, is a tale well-told. The appellation declined throughout much of the 20th century, and when Claude’s father retired in 1977 he passed just 6.5 hectares onto his son. This does not sound like much, but it was a very large slice of the appellation, which had shrank to just 48 hectares. Centuries of viticultural history had been condensed down into a vineyard smaller than many cru classé estates in Bordeaux. Indeed, some famous names on the Médoc have a vineyard close to twice this area.
It was thus Claude Lafond who revived the family domaine and indeed the appellation as a whole. Today there are about 260 hectares of vines in Reuilly, and the Lafond family own well over 40 hectares. Tragically Claude is no longer with us, as unexpectedly he passed away in 2015. The property has since been managed by his daughter, Nathalie Lafond (pictured).
The Wines
Nathalie continues with the broad range of styles that the appellation permits, including the usual Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, as you might expect, but also the appellation’s specialty, rosé made from Pinot Gris. I remember tasting the just-picked Pinot Gris with Claude Lafond the last time I saw him before he died, during a visit in 2013. It was one of the most delicious rosé wines I have ever tasted! The 2018 Reuilly Rosé La Grande Pièce is a wine in the same style, still showing quite well even though this has now been languishing in bottle for more than a year. It needs drinking up, and even though it still gives joy I am sure it would have been better drunk last year.