Bordeaux 2017 Primeurs: Haut-Médoc
The grand appellations of the Médoc peninsula and the less prestigious Haut-Médoc appellation are of course closely related, geographically and historically. Up until the 1950s the wines of Margaux were sold under the Haut-Médoc appellation, the Margaux appellation having been ratified only as recently as 1954 (hunt around for images of old labels of Château Margaux and you will see what I mean). Today all these appellations butt up against one another, the vineyards of the Haut-Médoc enveloping those of St Estèphe, Pauillac, St Julien and Margaux, but of course they are not so advantaged. And that has made life a little difficult in the Haut-Médoc in 2017.
First, whereas the most favoured vineyards of St Estèphe, Pauillac and St Julien look out across the Gironde, many of the Haut-Médoc vineyards are further inland. And that means these vineyards were at a much greater risk of frost damage in this vintage. There are some Haut-Médoc vineyards closer to the Gironde of course, between St Julien and Margaux, or north of St Estèphe, but these vineyards are few and far between. And in addition, the gravel beds are not always so deep here, and in some cases the land can be a little more low-lying, less well-drained, and susceptible to this vintage’s spring frost.
Despite this, there are some genuine successes in the Haut-Médoc in this vintage. And some are real surprises, coming from quite westerly vineyards which, by rights, should have been frosted into a black oblivion leaving either wines made from second-generation fruit, all herbaceous redcurrants and pomegranate, or indeed no wine at all. And yet there are wines here filled with fresh dark fruits, bright and convincing. It is clear that some in the Haut-Médoc have worked very hard to pull something good from this vintage.
