Bordeaux 2017 Primeurs: St Emilion Grand Cru Classé & Grand Cru
Continuing my examination of the 2017 vintage in St Emilion, in this second report I move on from the wines of the premier grand cru classé estates, previously discussed in detail here, to look at all the remaining wines in the appellation, whether they be grand cru classé, grand cru or otherwise.
The St Emilion appellation was hit hard by the frost in 2017, although anyone reading solely my notes on the premier grand cru classé wines might not think so. Apart from a handful of domaines, those highly ranked estates turned out a slew of very attractive wines in this vintage, good quality wines produced in good volumes. The reason for that I have already made clear in my previous report; most of these domaines, there being just one or two obvious exceptions, were advantaged by their elevated positions on the limestone plateau. Frost damage is the result of super-cold air freezing the tender young buds and leaves, and cold air always settles at the lowest point. In St Emilion, the frosty air ran off the plateau and gathered around more low-lying vines, largely on the broad beds of sand which sit to the south and west of the town and the plateau. Also at risk were vineyards on the lowest parts of the côtes, anywhere around the plateau, including on the northern side of the town. And any estate in the extreme west of the appellation, on the gravelly soils close to Pomerol, was also vulnerable, as evinced by the experiences at Château Cheval Blanc and Château Figeac.
This second St Emilion report takes in wines of all levels (excluding the premier grand cru classé wines already discussed), from all corners of the appellation, from a variety of terroirs, with varied elevations, some high up on the limestone plateau, some low down on sandy soils. There is no unifying story that typifies the experience for this broad group of domaines. As I hinted in my previous report, some domaines have been entirely frosted, losing every bud and every bunch. There were some that were partially frosted, and there are also numerous domaines located up on the plateau that got away with it, the lucky ones who got through the frost period without suffering any damage at all.
