Bordeaux 2017 Primeurs: Castillon & Co.
This instalment of my 2017 Bordeaux primeurs report brings together my tasting notes on a range of right-bank appellations. Sitting east of the vineyards of St Emilion we have two interesting Côtes de Bordeaux appellations, firstly Castillon, which is a direct eastwards continuation of the St Emilion appellation, and the lesser-known Francs, one of the Bordeaux region’s smallest vineyards. Moving west, adjacent to the right bank’s most famous appellations we have the St Emilion and Pomerol satellites. And then to the west of Pomerol, across the Isle, and following the course of the Gironde, we have first Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac, followed by the vineyards of Bourg and then Blaye. It is a grouping of fairly disparate appellations although there are some common themes, mainly terroir, which is predominantly (but not exclusively) limestone and clay, and variety, as Merlot largely leads the way.
Another common theme is value; these appellations are collectively a great source of good-value drinking in Bordeaux, and are always worth looking at during the primeurs. Of course, in this vintage, some of them have been knocked pretty badly by the frost. Average yields across these appellations range from a very restricted 19 hl/ha in the St Emilion satellites, more than a 60% reduction on the norm, up to 39 hl/ha in the Côtes de Bourg appellation, a ‘mere’ 20% loss compared to what was expected.
As a consequence, yet again we have great heterogeneity within this report, as within each appellation some domaines were entirely frosted, while some got away without incurring any significant damage, so quality is sometimes up, and sometimes down.
