Three Vintages of Château Angélus, 2018
The ascendency of Château Angélus under the direction of Hubert de Boüard de Laforest has been nothing short of breathtaking. Standing outside the Tolkienesque edifice that is Château Angélus today, an ornately decorated edifice with a towering carillon, or indeed tasting its powerhouse wines which have done their bit in redefining the taste profile of Bordeaux, it is easy to forget that neither the estate nor its wines were in great shape thirty or forty years ago. Indeed, when Hubert assumed full control in 1985, some critics were happy to describe the estate as “moribund”.
In the three decades that have passed since Hubert (pictured) took control he has supervised a bottom-up revitalisation of the estate, restructuring and replanting the vineyard, shifting towards a greater emphasis on Cabernet Franc, rebuilding and re-equipping the cellars, completely overhauling the approach to winemaking, and finally razing the old château to the ground and erecting it anew, in a style more reminiscent of the grand elf Elrond than the old monk Emilion. The work has been rewarded first with promotion from grand cru classé to premier grand cru classé B in the 1996 St Emilion classification, followed by promotion to what many thought was the unassailable premier grand cru classé A level in the 2012 revision.
Along the way, Hubert has himself been rewarded. Off the back of his success at Château Angélus a great demand for his services as a consultant developed, not just within Bordeaux, but globally. Visiting the estate in early 2018 I took a nosey around his drawing room, in his private residence, a small house which sits hidden behind trees next-door to the exceedingly grandiose château. Among the stuffed songbirds and other curios which seem to grace every self-respecting Bordeaux salon sit two medals, one the blue Ordre National du Mérite, the system created by Charles de Gaulle, the other the red Légion d’Honneur, the older and rather grander honour which owes its existence to Napoleon. Presumably (although I confess I forgot to ask) these were awarded for his services to viticulture and business. The two coloured ribbons on Hubert’s jacket (above) indicate his possession of these honours. Scattered behind were various photographs, of family and ancestors, of Hubert with Bill Clinton and a smattering of other celebrities. There wasn’t one of Hubert with Sting, which was mildly disappointing, as I knew he and the onetime Police front-man had been partying together the night before, at Château Monlot, following Sting’s inauguration into the St Emilion jurade.
My invitation must have been lost in the post!
